miércoles, 10 de junio de 2015

In the land of pisco... The Five Pisco Regions: A marvelous womb. "The Jars (Tinajas) of Arequipa"


Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2015).


The ceramic objects found in the pre-Hispanic tombs of Arequipa demonstrate that the Andean societies mastered various techniques  and knew about various materials and supplies, as well as were able to create unique, simple or highly decorated ceramics. Among the conquistadors that established themselves in Arequipa after the founding of the city in 1540, some knew the basic principles to mold clay and create some dishes, bowls or containers, which they made for their daily use. 

Chicha was the most consumed drink in the Andean world, and wine was what was most consumed by in the Hispanic world. In both cases the containers for each beverage had different sizes and functions. However, they were the objects that were produced, and little by little they fused in size, technique and use, which resulted in the tinaja, which is defined as a large container made from fired clay, wider about the middle than at the bottom and the top. It is generally fitted to the ground, or semi-buried, and served to house the grape must during its fermentation or maturation period for the necessary time, according to the criteria of the bodeguero. Later the grape must would become wine, or would be processed, resulting in the national beverage of Peru: Pisco. 

The commerce of wine and its production were very important activities; in the second half of the 16th Century, the jurisdiction of Arequipa supplied the entire southern region of the Peruvian viceroyalty as well as Charchas--today Bolivia--with its wines, firewater and vinegars, which were principally from the valleys of Vítor, Moquegua, Majes, Siguas and Caravelí. 

For this exorbitant commerce, it was necessary to have an enormous amount of tinajas and bottles. One of the oldest manuscripts dates from the end of the 1660s and is a unique contract between natives from Caravelí who were masters at making tinajas. They are identified as Alonso Vequi, Martín Vequi and Antón Quise, who along with the Spaniard Hernán Bueno signed a contract to make 54 tinajas of 30 to 35 arrobas each (an arroba is a Spanish measure that is equivalent to about 11.5 kilos). The clauses of the document establish that the tinajas will be delivered within a month and a half, and the price for all of the work was 108 pesos of common silver; half to be paid in gold pesos, and the rest in silver pesos. Hernán Bueno committed himself to giving the locals the clay and the housing they would stay in while they fulfilled their work. This information demonstrates that in 1569, in the region of Arequipa there were efficient, quick and qualified laborers for the production of tinajas of various sizes. 

Arequipa, telluric land, has in its 472 years of establishment suffered dozens of earthquakes which have changed its architectural features. Bodegas and tinajas were destroyed and were built anew thicker and more resistant to the inclemency of the weather. A tinaja was found in the Convent of the Recoleta of Arequipa that was dated to 1550, which makes it the oldest in Peru. Another important example is the tinaja that was found in the bodega titled El Curaca in the Caravelí valley, dated to 1609. 

Tinajas have been present throughout Arequipa’s history, and have become an invaluable legacy to be protected as culture heritage and needs to have its story told in order to protect these containers from their illegal sale, as well as there destruction. Also, we must rescue their techniques of production, and in this way value them as one of the symbols of our Peruvian heritage. 

Alejandro Málaga Núñez-Zeballos 
Academia Peruana del Pisco
Universidad Nacional de San Agustín 
2012


Translated by Katrina Heimark


Pisco bilingual magazine

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