martes, 2 de junio de 2015

In the land of pisco... The Five Pisco Regions "Ica" Part I




Interview with Pisco Magazine
CITEVID
MR. MANUEL MORÓN
Executive Director of the Center of Vine-growing Technological Innovation
 “CITEVID”

1.-Mr. Manuel Morón, could you please explain for our readers what CITEVID is? 

CITEVID is a department of the Ministry of Production. It was created in the year 2000. We are a part of the CITES group. In Lima there is a technical office for CITES, where they coordinate the three public CITES which are: CITECALZADO (Center for Technological Innovation of the Shoe Industry), CITEVID and CITEMADERA (Center for Wood Technological Innovation). The office also works with eleven private CITES that are linked to the Ministry of Production. MINCETUR (Ministry of Foreign Commerce and Tourism) also has CITES such as ones for handicrafts, jewelry and others that they directly manage.


2.-When and how did you begin your activities as CITEVID, and who was part of the team at that time? 

We began to work in October 2000; we’ve been working for more than ten years. We began with a basic team of three people and were able to work in part due to common effort of the Spanish Cooperation as well as some funding from what was (at that time) the Ministry of Industry and Tourism. We were a part of that Ministry and had some seed capital to begin our work. Before this, we managed to get a section that was in use which are these almost 12 hectares that we have here. When we got here, everything was a bare; there was absolutely nothing. Only a few traces of a very old adobe structure that was abandoned, but nothing other than that.

Our activities began with an enologist, a wine-growing engineer, and myself, who am an economist. You can’t imagine; we were on a mission, one of transferring technology and knowledge. Our vision was that this knowledge be used to improve the quality of life for people, that it be transfer, that it be competitive and be part of the world market, because that was the direction we wanted to go, and it was very tied, initially, to Pisco.



3.-What changes are in store for CITEVID?

Let me explain. We are just a step away from becoming a CITE for Agro-Industry, so we no longer will be called CITEVID--we are going to add the letter A to this name in honor of Agro-Industry, and so in the future it will be called CITEVIDA. This is premier news, only revealed for Pisco Magazine; the Resolution has not yet been published. Since we started with three people, and we had this mission of transferring knowledge and training people it was very difficult. Especially since in 2000 until today there is a certain level of mistrust of government bodies. 
4.-As part of CITEVID, you had visualized a challenge: that of gaining the trust of producers. Did you  have a strategy in order to win over this sector?

Yes, our challenge was to effectively win over the small producers so that they would trust us. It was a titanic challenge, and so we designed an entire strategy to work with basic core groups of producers. This strategy consisted of mapping the zone of our influence because we cover the area from Lima to Tacna in matters of Pisco grapes, but everywhere from Tacna to Tumbes in matters of table grapes. So since we were only three people, we agreed that we would start with Ica and map Ica. We did so in order to see which were our basic core groups of producers, identify the leaders (and, preferably young leaders, or leaders who have young children to whom we could transfer our knowledge). That is how we began to work with illustrative parcels and bodegas.

We also had to demonstrate that we knew the business, that our bases were clear, that we wanted the vine-producing sector to grow as a chain. That was our objective and little by little we began to start our work, and at the same time see how we would grow in the future here. So thanks to the Spanish Cooperation which was supporting us, we could purchase a still; with funds from the treasury we could build a bodega, and since the Spanish Cooperation allowed us to get some basic state-of-the-art equipment for the laboratory, we were able to demonstrate to the producers of Ica, as well as those of neighboring areas, what the future of CITE was going to be like. Also the Spanish Cooperation allowed us to purchase all the material necessary to set up the areas for cultivation, and that is how we began.

We inaugurated the bodega school and since then on, we have somehow contributed to the growth of the sector. 

5.-CITEVID has practically formed businesses. How does it feel today to see constituted businesses that have an exceptional presence in the national and international market? 

First I can say that we feel very happy to say that more than 90 small businesses have been trained here. Many of them, actually the majority, have won regional, national and international rewards.

This past year was a very special one for us; due to the fact that a Pisco elaborated here by a small producer that works very seriously, won a Gold Medal in the Regional Competition, and a Gold Medal and a Great Gold Medal at the National Competition. And, on the Day of the Pisco Sour he again won the Medal for the best Pisco Sour. I think that this has been our best year. We were very demanding with our students because we work in the traceability of the product -from the grape collecting to the packaging of the bottles of pisco- so little by little the training was not only oriented towards good logistical practices, not only good manufacturing practices (production), but also the efficient management, which has been one of the most difficult tasks.

6.-When do you offer training? From what perspective?

The work of training is a vocation, and much more of a vocation in the fields because we are faced with different problems that the farmer has; problems that one lives up closely when there is a plague, or when a farmer can’t attend a course, or when their child can’t attend, and the most important, it is difficult to convince the farmers that the training is not an expense, but rather an investment.

Also, I can tell you that we have contributed to the sector. If in the year 2000 we had 1.2 million liters of production, we are now producing over 7 million. If in 2000 we had 16 brands in supermarkets and commercial stores, now there are more than 370 brands. If in 2000 we had 48 denominations of origin that were registered, we now have more than 500 registered.

7.-And in regards to the varieties of Pisco Grapes, what can you tell us?

When we first started we said “we cannot improve the quality of the grape if we don’t have a nursery,” so we began to work in that direction. That is why we have one open nursery and one closed. We have begun to produce American saplings that have given us the opportunity to show the small producer the importance of technical assistance. For example, a producer focused on his parcel, that was plagued with phylloxera, and he replied that it had been that way for the 40 years that he had it. Yes, but, what is its output? I think its fine that the Quebranta grape is tolerant of phylloxera, but it isn’t resistant; it slowly kills it. Therefore the production becomes smaller and smaller every day. We have made changes with illustrative parcels belonging to small producers that were producing 2.4 million kilos, and now are producing 15 million kilos per hectare, and they are realizing this. Here the big problem is that we aren’t an extensive nursery but rather a small one. The large nurseries that begin to import saplings from France demand a high initial investment that isn’t always within reach of the small producers, which leads to a change in these American patterns. One has to kill what is being produced in order to see the reality of the earnings. And that is what the small producer lives from.

 8.-How does CITEVID manage the area of the preparation of Pisco varieties?

We have all of the varieties. One can come and ask CITEVID for Torontel, Quebranta, Viña, etc; all the varieties without exception, but in small quantities. This is planned; if you come now and request so many plants for next year, we will prepare them for you. This is our job.

9.- What can you tell us in regards to planted areas. Have you increased the amount of areas that have Pisco grapes planted?

Yes, we have increased them. I can tell you that some small producers have purchased an additional 5 hectares, some 10. Jorge Queirolo, who is a visionary, has purchased more hectares, Johnny Schuller has purchased more than 300 hectares, and so have Vista Alegre and Tabernero. The biggest problem in our country is that the statistics aren’t trustworthy, therefore I cannot say with precision how much we have grown, not only in hectares, but also in investment for training. In Viña de Oro they have invested, which makes me happy because the work they have done there is good work. The same in Tacama and Vista Alegre. It is so rewarding to see how our bodegas have improved Tabernero, Tacama and Queirolo. They are producing some extraordinary and exquisite wines. 
So yes, I think that the vine-producing industry is on a good path, we have to insist and take care of the brands. Now I repeat to the small producers that we are a “fashion” and if fashions aren’t taken good care of, they slip away, they are lost. Therefore we have to be constant in our attention to our brand and image as a country. That is where we are in this effort, and I think it is something that we have achieved.

10.- Do you do production? Give Services?

Let me first say that we do not do production. A lot of people ask us about this; here we do service training. For example, we are asked “Sirs, how many people are going to produce your Pisco this season?” For example, last Saturday fourteen people came here to our training room. We gave them training and the “rules of the game.” Such as, how the grape should enter, how to recognize the traceability of the grape, what to do the first day. The first day they learn to use the de-stemmer, the second day they learn to use the horizontal press, the fourth day they have to see how their must is fermenting; they have to come every day to see how the grapes ferment so that they can see how to do the analysis. After the fermentation they have to attend, in turn. And if their turn is at 8pm, they have to be there at 8pm to see how to distill the liquid and make the different cuts. This is not a factory, not production.
And please note that we ask them to come with a young person so that the knowledge is transfered here, because there has to be someone, who must continue the work someday. Many people say that we do very good production, but we do not produce here. We are tired of saying that we do not do production.

11.-My understanding is that you have a limit of 2 to 3 years so that the small producer can begin to work independently. They must have installed their own still and equipment in order to begin to work within this time period. What can you tell us about this? 

We ask the small producers what their situation is like. When a small producer comes and tells me that he wants to make Pisco, I become his doctor. I ask him why he wants to produce Pisco, and he says that there is a niche in the market. I ask, “Does this niche have a market study?” He responds that no, it doesn’t. I advise him that there are many small producers that are making high quality Pisco and that they have to make their cost structures. For the most part they have no idea how much they will have to invest, they do not understand what market is, or what a minimum cost structure is in order to produce Pisco.

In the edition “Harvest IV” we will continue with this interesting interview. We’ll see: stainless steel tanks or polyethylene ones? How does CITEVID support producers? And so much more! Stay tuned!

Translated by Katrina Heimark

Pisco bilingual magazine

No hay comentarios: