In the land of Pisco... The Five Pisco Regions: Moquegua

 

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).

Touristic Circuit: the Moquegua Pisco Route

Translated by Katrina Heimark

One of the best places, whether in Peru or around the world, where Pisco is produced is Moquegua. In the charming climate of the Moquegua Valley, magical vines are grown in the extensive open country. In this valley, you can discover some of the antique colonial bodegas where the best Vine Reserves are located, which are what make this touristic route so attractive on a national and international level.

Norvill Bodega
Located at 1370 Ayacucho St. and founded by Nolberto Villegas Talavera, creator of the Norvill brand that has products such as pure Pisco, Italia, Acholado and Mosto Verde Piscos, cognac (aged in oak casks), Anisado (a brandy aged with anis flavor) and port.

Susc. Valdivia Bodega
Located at Escapalaque Farm about 1km outside Moquegua, this farm produces prestigious Italia Piscos, and a high quality Anisado.

Moquegua has prodigious land for the cultivation of the “wine varieties” brought over by the Conquistadors. The Escapalaque farm, one of the first thirty to be planted, is the location of Camilo Valdivia’s bodega, and is the basis for the development of a modernized production that prioritizes quality under the slogan “because our tradition is an obligation.”



El Mocho Bodega
The name of this bodega comes from the term of endearment given to great-grandfather Don Antonio Salas, and is also known as “El Cuadrante” Farm. It is the property of Mr. Tomás Salas Alarcón and his family, and is located about 5km outside Moquegua. They put dedication, effort and quality and above all, the flavor of their lands into their Piscos, wines, anisado, and sweet wines known as mistela. Their Pisco has received prestige on a regional and national level.

Veléz Bodega
Located in the midst of beautiful landscapes of the Ocollita agricultural valley, in the middle of an impressive verdant grove, this bodega is the property of Don Mario Veléz Calderón, who produces a very high quality Pisco Veléz and dry wines.

San José Bodega
Located about 1.3 km from the Chimba Alta farm (via the Rayo landscapes), the bodega has colonial infrastructure and earthenware jars that date back to the year 1612. The bodega’s owner is Víctor Paredes Salazar, who has great experience in producing quality Piscos. He was awarded first place in the Aromatic Pisco Variety competition during the 1997 National Pisco Competition, as well as his having received other numerous awards.

Parras y Reyes Bodega
Founded by Teófilo Parras Ascona, this bodega is located in the Chimba Alta Farm (via the Rayo landscapes) and is about 1 km from the city. This bodega stands out in regards to the production of Green Must Pisco and Aromatic Piscos. They also produce a delicious sweet wine called “Perfect for Love:” Borgoña. It has also received prizes on regional and national levels.

Zapata Bodega
Located along kilometer 1142 of the South Pan-American Highway (on the way to the city of Tacna), and at the Omo Farm some 6km from the city, this farm is the property of the Zapata family that has an unsurpassable quality of Moquegua Pisco with the brand name Pisco Zapata.

Biondi Bodega
It is located along kilometer 1143 of the South Pan-American Highway in the Omo Farm some 6.5km from the city. This bodega carefully follows traditional production and fermentation methods, which are necessary in order to obtain Piscos of the highest quality. This quality is seen in the pure and aromatic Piscos they produce, and which have national and international recognition.

Ghersi Bodega
Located along kilometer 1144 of the South Pan-American Highway, this typical colonial bodega has preserved the original alambiques and bottles used in the production of Piscos and Wines.

López Bodega
Located in the lower part of the valley, close to the South Pan-American Highway, in the San José Sector is the López Vargas Bodega. Currently they have new vine plantations, and produce pure and aromatic Piscos.

“Moquegua….Land of Sun and Tradition.”
The incomparably attractive farm landscapes with fruits, food crops and fields with good foraging for livestock demonstrate the excellent climate, soil fertility, the water quality and the goodness of the people of Moquegua. This excellent fruit producing valley was able to develop wineries as their principal economic activity during colonization, and at one point had more than 1,200 hectares in wine cultivation, which at the time supplied around 120 bodegas in the production of high quality wines and Piscos. This activity took place in different valleys around the country, but especially in the regions of Tacna, Moquegua, Arequipa, Ica and Lima. The wine cultivation was so successful that the products began to be exported back to Spain. Thus, producers in the Iberian Peninsula requested that King Phillip II prohibit said commerce, which it was in 1614. However, due to this restriction, grape firewater was intensely produced and exported through the port of Pisco, hence giving the beverage its name.

The different types of recognized Pisco are: Pure made from aromatic and non aromatic Pisco grapes, green must, and acholado.




Pisco bilingual magazine

In the land of Pisco... The Five Pisco Regions: Arequipa

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).

 

By Alejandro Málaga Núñez-Zeballos
Academia Peruana del Pisco, Arequipa.

Translated by Katrina Heimark

The origin of the commercialization of wine in Arequipa (16th Century)

The presence of wine in Arequipa was initially in the wineskins that the first Spanish carried through the Chili River Valley in 1535. Later
wine was present throughout the founding of Arequipa, during the mass and the toast of honor. It was present as well in the grid outlining ceremony and the installation of the pillories; and much later in each of the political and religious authorities’ homes, as well as the homes of the colonists, artisans and even chiefs.
Civil wars between the conquistadors disrupted the city during the first twenty years after its founding. Hikes in prices and the interruption of the flow of merchandise from the Iberian Peninsula to the ports of Quilca and Chule happened often during those years. The principal families of the city possessed apple, orange, grape and quince orchards on the left bank of the river; all of which were to be consumed as fruits. The lack of wine was made up for in jugs brought from Andalucia and Castilla, but which were very costly.

On January 1, 1546, a ship arrived to Quilca with merchandise such as different quality fabrics, shirts, breeches, shoes, birds, pigs, horses, etc, and principally, jugs of wine and oil, which were carried from the coast to the city of Arequipa by Yanacona Indians, who were sent by Yarabaha and Chilque Chiefs. It seems that this was not a good idea, because on March 13, the civil council revoked the ordinance, and prohibited the sale of wine without a previous measure. They also established that blacks could not “have” more than one Indian woman. Seven months later, the authority reconsidered and ordered that Indians must carry all merchandise, and that merchants must pay chiefs according to the established ordinances.

At the beginning of the year 1547, Gonzalo Pizarro was the governor and his Lieutenant Capitan in Arequipa, Juan de Silveira, ordered “that merchants moderate themselves in the sale of wine, which has increased in price. They must be mandated to lower the price. The most expensive, of 20 pesos, is not to be sold at a higher price, under penalty of 200 gold pesos, half for His Majesty’s coffers, and the other half for the judge who emits the sentence.

At the end of the decade, there were bars that served food and wine to citizens and travelers, but none were regulated by tariffs. Thus, the prices of wine were very different, and in some cases, wines were very expensive and generated complaints from citizens, or they were very cheap and “often were sold to slaves, and for watching blacks dance taquies (frenetic dances) during their parties. Often some blacks killed each other and did some very ugly things while in the service of God.” Thus, the authorities ordered that no one sell wine to slaves if they didn’t have an identity card mentioning their owner: “on pain of 10 gold pesos; let it be made public that no slave will dance taquies in any part of the city, nor outside of the city, and if they do, the sheriff will seize them and they will be given 100 lashes while tied to the pillory.” Also, for the first time a price was established for the wayside inns of the cities of Vítor, Siguas, Camaná, Ocoña, Atico, Atiquipa, Acarí, Chule, Chiguata, y Quilca; a quartile (half liter) of white wine was to cost 6 tomines, and a quartile of red wine 1 peso and 2 tomines.

By 1557, prosperous farms of various crops, such as corn, potato, onion, wheat and vineyards, surrounded Arequipa. They were constantly affected by livestock that passed through the area in a disorderly fashion. Thus, authorities decreed that “any livestock such as sheep or pigs or goats or cattle, and all light-weighing livestock caught damaging vineyards in this city will have, under all terms, the penalty taking place on the fifth day. The penalty will be the taking of from 5 to 50 heads of livestock. And if it happens by night the penalty is to be doubled. The penalty will be paid in two parts; one for the owner of the land or vineyard or estate, and the other part to the judge as well as half for the city’s public works.

Clearly, the disposition protected the wine-producing areas because they were the first plantings to be used for wine production. Wine commerce during the first two decades after the founding of Arequipa were initially important; later merchants took notice of their high profitability and acquired land to become wine producers.



Pisco bilingual magazine






In the land of Pisco... The Five Pisco Regions (Tacna)

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013)


Translate by Katrina Heimark

By Oenologist and Engineer Patricia Linares

The “Tacna Sour” celebrates the 30 year anniversary of its creation in Southern Peru

The emblematic Tacna cocktail has even won over Chileans

Its captivating smell and flavor is what makes it unique, curious and irresistible. Its principal ingredient is “Liquor from macerated apricots.” This traditional cocktail from Tacna is the indelible mark of Tacna dwellers, and it doesn’t only win over Peruvians, but also principally Chileans in the cities of Arica and Iquique. The cocktail is present in famous and popular restaurants, and one can see in menus names such as Pisco Sour, Chilcano de Pisco, Capitan, and others, as well as the unexpected “Tacna Sour,” which is prepared with ingredients that are similar to those in Peru. The Chileans use these names knowing very well that the cocktail originates both in name and preparation from Tacna, and uses ingredients from the city as well. This emblematic cocktail is made only with fruits from the Tacna and Pisco Valleys, and with Negra Criolla Grapes.

The Typical Drink from Tacna
August 6th was the 30th anniversary of the creation of the drink, which has been the emblematic appetizer in the celebration of the reincorporation of Tacna to the National Estate since 1981. Starting in 2009, Municipal ordinance Nº 21-2009 declared the first Saturday in August as “Tacna Sour Day.”

This August the historic Zela House was the location in which the regional competition called “The Best Tacna Sour” took place. It was promoted by the Provincial Municipality of Tacna and the regional Department of Tourism. The participation of restaurants, bartenders, cuisine schools, institutes, universities and enthusiasts made this initiative possible. The competition not only promotes the consumption of this emblematic drink, it also strengthens the regional identity of this product. The winners of the 2011 Tacna Sour competition were: Jose Luis Reto in the Institute Category, Gildemaro Condori in the Pub Category, and Paola Francis in the Restaurant Category.


Tacna Sour Preparation
Ingredients:
3 oz Tacna Apricot Liquor
1 oz cane sugar
1 oz lime juice
1 dash egg white
Crushed Ice

Preparation
Liquefy apricot liquor, cane sugar, lime and ice. When mixed, add the egg white and liquefy a few seconds more. Optional: Serve with a drop of Angostura Bitters.

Origin
This cocktail must use as a base “the apricot [that] must be from the Chucatamani Valley, located in the province of Tarata in Tacna.” This area is an excellent producer of the apricot and is located in the mountainous region of Tacna. It is populated by friendly, hardworking and festive people; their carnivals are characterized with music and dances to the rhythm of the zampoña and enveloped in intense aromas of apricots and radiant plums. Wonderful liquors can be made from these fruits, just like liquors made from quince, pears and figs.

There are versions that attribute the invention and name of the Tacna Sour simultaneously to barman Juan Soto Saico, who worked in the touristic restaurant “Rancho San Antonio,” and to Don Cesar Chiarella Arce and family, owners of said local. The drink was originally called “ The Rancho Sour.” Thanks to the circumstances and inventiveness of these people, they have blessed the palates of the people of Tacna with the creation. This cocktail is the most representative of that heroic city.

It is important to mention that apricots are produced in Tacna and Moquegua and in these regions they prepare exquisite liquors with fruits or macerated fruits. It is important to keep in mind that genetic variability, adaptation to the area, the water used for irrigation, and the daylight hours all affect the apricots. At the same time, these factors assure that the apricots are optimally developed, as well as give them their individual seal as a regional fruit, and with especially marked organoleptic characteristics. This is why the Tacna Sour must be prepared specifically with liquor obtained from the maceration of Tacna apricots.

Celebrating the holidays of my dear city of Tacna has allowed me to give toasts with a delicious Tacna sour, which I would define as having a sort of elegance of yesteryear, a classic that mixes finesse and a sweeping sensual force that always leaves a mark.

Tasting Notes: Tacna Sour
In the visual aspect, the cocktail is lightly amber in color. Immediately one perceives in the nose an intensity and refinement of apricot, with a hint of lime. In the mouth, the start of an apricot flavor predominates which then is transformed into a mix of perfect sweet and sour, which is harmonious with the drink’s alcoholic weight. It is refreshing, delicate, aromatic and exotic. It is ideal for appetizers or for any occasion.

People from Tacna, and our Chilean friends perhaps more so, love this cocktail because it is so full of aromas and happiness. But in order to understand the marvelous experience that is lived through this cocktail, it must be tasted!

And Cheers with Tacna Sour!

 

Pisco bilingual magazine

In the land of Pisco... Pisco Around the World "Pisco in San Francisco"

Pisco /Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).

 

“We were not the first…”

By Guillermo Toro-Lira

In the 1950s and 60s, Casa Ranuzzi was one of the biggest exporters of Pisco in the United States. Using innovative marketing techniques and a good distribution network, the company was able to successfully popularize the brand “Inca Pisco” in the US. This Pisco, produced in Ica, was bottled in ceramic vessels with Inca and Lima motifs.

As a promotional product, they also created 50ml ceramic miniatures with more than one hundred different designs, forms and colors. They also published creative advertisements in gourmet

magazines where they presented the Pisco Sour recipe, thus promoting not only Inca Pisco, but also its most popular cocktail.

How did this imaginative initiative begin? Why did Casa Ranuzzi decide to enter the United States’ market? It seems that we have found the answer to these questions.

The first clue that sheds light on these questions is from a prominent advertisement which was published in the newspaper El Comercio on November 25, 1944, which reads “¡SALUD!... CON PISCO COCKTAIL” (“CHEERS!...WITH PISCO COCKTAIL”). It was published by Mario Ranuzzi, founder of the aforementioned Casa Ranuzzi, originally from Bologna Italy, and who came to Peru during the first half of the 20th Century where he dedicated himself to the manufacturing of liquors.

At the end of the 1930s, the mythical Pisco Punch was still very popular in San Francisco, California, even after an unfortunate thirteen year absence due to Prohibition. During this decade, it was produced and bottled by more than four San Francisco companies.

A comparison of the advertisement seen in El Comercio and the label on the bottle demonstrate that the typographic design of both is identical. This proves that Ranuzzi was familiar with the Pisco Punch of California, and that he commercialized a similar drink in Lima. However, it seems that it wasn’t very popular with the people of Lima, and after a while, Ranuzzi decided to change tactics. He developed Inca Pisco with his marketing machine and pointed his business, this time, towards the north. While he did so, however, he constantly elevated the mysticism of the Pisco Punch and Pisco itself.

PS. A demonstration of the popularity and success that Inca Pisco had in the United States is the large quantity of ceramic miniatures that still exist and can be found for sale on the internet.

Translated by Katrina Heimark



Sección: *El Pisco en el mundo

El Pisco en San Francisco

No fuimos los primeros  Guillermo Toro-Lira

En las décadas de 1950 y 1960, la Casa Ranuzzi era una de las más grandes exportadoras de Pisco en los Estados Unidos.  Utilizando técnicas innovadoras de mercadotecnia y una buena red de distribución, la compañía llegó a popularizar con éxito la marca Inca Pisco en el país norteamericano. Este Pisco, producido en Ica, era embotellado en vasijas de cerámica con motivos incaicos y limeños.  
Como producto promocional también se crearon cerámicos de miniatura de 50 ml de capacidad, valiéndose para ello de más de cien diseños diferentes entre formas y colores. También se publicaron en revistas gourmet propagandas creativas donde se presentaba la receta del Pisco Sour, publicitando de esta manera tanto al Inca Pisco como la preparación predilecta.

¿Cómo se inició esta iniciativa tan imaginativa? ¿Por qué se decidió por el mercado estadounidense? Parece ser que se ha encontrado una respuesta. 

La pista es una prominente propaganda publicada en el diario El Comercio el 25 de noviembre de 1944 que lee: "¡SALUD!... CON PISCO COCKTAIL".  Fue publicada por Mario Ranuzzi, fundador de la mencionada Casa Ranuzzi, natural de Boloña, Italia, y llegado al Perú durante la primera mitad del siglo XX donde se dedicó a la manufactura de licores.

A fines de la década de 1930, el mítico Pisco Punch todavía era muy popular en San Francisco, California, aun después de su desafortunada ausencia de trece años debido a la ley seca de ese país.  En esa década fue producido por más de cuatro compañías san franciscanas de manera embotellada.

Una comparación de la propaganda de El Comercio y de la etiqueta de la botella muestra que el diseño tipográfico de ambas es idéntico. Esto prueba que Ranuzzi era familiar con el Pisco Punch de California y que comercializó una bebida similar en Lima.  Sin embargo, ésta parece no haber atraído a la colectividad limeña y después de algún tiempo Ranuzzi decide dar un giro completo. Desarrolla Inca Pisco con toda su maquinaria mercadotécnica y apunta el negocio esta vez hacia el norte, pero siempre llevando sobre el hombro el misticismo del Pisco Punch y del Pisco.

PD. Una muestra de la popularidad y éxito que tuvo Inca Pisco en los Estados Unidos es la gran cantidad de las miniaturas de cerámica existentes actualmente en el comercio internet de ese país.

In the land of Pisco... The Lords of Pisco Don Domingo Elias

Pisco /Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).

By. Eduardo Dargent Chamot

My studies on Pisco through the years allow me to say that the most
influential person in the development of our national drink, Pisco, during the XIX Century was Domingo Elias, a gentleman born in Ica in 1805 who was committed to Peru in many ways. He was involved in business, politics, industry and agriculture. Soon after finishing high school he traveled to Spain and France where he completed his education. In 1825 Elias returned to Peru and dedicated himself to agriculture. However, the circumstances of the times got him involved in national politics.  He was the Prefect of Lima during the government of José Antonio de Vivanco, and was left in charge of the presidency when Vivanco had to leave the capital to fight General Ramón Castilla. After serving as head of several “Ministerios” he became member of parliament representing Ica and later the diplomatic agent of Peru in Bolivia. Thanks to him the first National Budget Law of Perú was passed and the peace treaty with Bolivia  after the Confederation and the war was signed.

In regards to education, Elias was the founder of Colegio Guadelupe, which had as director the Spanish educator Sebastian Lorente. Don Domingo run for President against Echenique but lost and When the scandals of the “Consolidación” became evident, he pointed out that  the money earned from the  guano exports would not last forever. In 1854 Elias sided with Ramón Castilla and fought against Echenique until he was defeted. After the victory of Castilla Elias went to France for two years and only returned in 1858, again as a presidential candidate but after his new defeat he retired definitely from politics and dedicated himself entirely to agriculture until his death in 1867.

Until  now I have been following Alberto Tauro del Pino, whose “Illustrated Encyclopedia on Peru” is a fundamental piece for the understanding of national figures. Now I will highlight don Domingo’s activities in the area of our main interest.

Mr. Tauro, in his summaries about Elias agricultural contributions to Ica states “Upon his return (1825), he dedicated himself to agriculture, and, motivated by a driving business spirit, begun the large scale plantation of cotton, improved grapevine fields, and began to produce pisco instead of wines.”

These efforts were so important that the foreign travelers that visited Pisco during those years could not avoid stating their admiration for his achievements.

Jacob Von Tshudi, the Swiss scientist who traveled throughout Peru between 1838 and 1842, wrote his impressions of the city of Pisco in one of his books. He stated that the port “is only a sort of key for the great city of Ica,” and explained that what gave the city such importance were its white destilate exports.

In regards to the active and important decision of Domingo Elias to produce pisco, Von Tshudi stated in regard to the port’s facilities:
“Along the shore is the customs house with the Capitan of the Port and the impresive buildings constructed by Mister Elias for his pisco company.”

Von Tshudi spared no effort in praising Domingo Elias, who he called, “The richest, best businessman, and most circumspect of all the landowners of the coast.” And in regards to his wines, he stated that Elias had prepared a sort of European wine, which reminded him of the “wines of Madeira and Tenerife,” but it had a stronger proof and “has more fire.”

British “Peruanista” Clemens Markham was in Pisco during his second trip to Peru in 1853, and during that trip, he visited Elias’ bodegas where he had the opportunity to try the local wine destilate and was impressed, noting that “the best ‘aguardiente’, the Italia, is made of a large white grape, which is delicious.”

Another visitor who was impressed by Domingo Elias’ industry during his travels through Peru was the Frenchman Alfredo Leubel, who visited the port of Pisco in 1860. Although his references are centered on the wines, he stated that Elias had offices and large scale barrel-making shops. He also mentioned that Elias had personnel who was brought specially from the island of Madeira, which ensured that the only wine to be exported was Madeira wine. Leubel mentions that two-thirds of Elias’ production was exported to France, England and the United States, while the wines and other products of the valley were “wines only for the local consumption, but of very high quality.” In the Pisco port bodegas, wine made of “pure grapes” without any mixtures, was left to rest and that quality caught Leubel’s attention.

Aside from the specialized barrel-making, Leubel also stated that thanks to a “reform” that was recently introduced by Elias in regards to production. (the reform consisted of heating a stove in the area where the wines were stored). The aging effect was achieved in a short period of time. Or, as Leubel stated “[the wine] acquires the natural age that time normally gives it,” and after a year and a half, “can advantageously be exported.” The conclusion that the Frenchman reached was that Elias’ wine “had gained much, and could be perfect sustitut for Sherry.”

Yet another visitor who was impressed by Elias’ work was the British traveler Warren. In naval historian Fernando Romero Pintado’s book on the naval history of the republic from 1850 to 1870, he mentions that Warren considered Domingo Elias as the principal landowner in the Pisco area, and quotes Warren’s judgment about don Domingo’s: character:
    His vineyards are very extensive, and aside from his Italia grape distilleries, he possesses large wine bodegas that are under the supervision of experienced European winers who produce very well selected products: from Madeira and Sherry wines to Amontillado.

But don Elias’ work was not only recognizeded in his advances and positive reforms in order to achieve better wines and piscos nor were these developments mentioned only in the traveler´s memories.

On December 4, 1864, the government passed a circular resolution to the Prefects of the Departments of Arequipa, Moquegua and Ancash, informing them of the State´s interest in the development of the wine industry in the country. The resolution explained that although wine plantations and wine production were prevalent in the country, they had not been able to compete alongside large international producers due to a lack of knowledge and technique. Since the President was aware that an increase in the production of this crop and industry could bring many benefits to the country, he had hired Evaristo d’Ornellas to review the situation.

Here too the hand of don Domingo can be seen. D’Ornelas was an oenologist from one of Elias’ companies and his participation in the project is due to Elias’ interest in agriculture in general, and specifically vineyards. This was his generous contribution in direct support of the country’s development. Proof of this is the fact that the contract signed between the d´Ornelas and the government specifies that, although he must travel through the wine producing valleys of the country, and even travel abroad in search of materials and information, he was not compelled to leave his work in don Elias’ companies.

Peruvians, such as Domingo Elias, who introduced capital and technology without risking the traditional value of our grape destilate, made the development of the Pisco industry in the XIXth Century possible.

Translated by Eduardo Dargent Chamot.

Pisco bilingual magazine

In the land of Pisco... Pisco Cocktails

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).


Translated by Katrina Heimark

We would like to thank Mr. Enrique Vidarte Morales, the head of the Bar at Cala Restaurant for allowing us to publish his recipes. emvidarte@hotmail.com

Carrot Martini
Method: Beaten
Serving Glass:  10oz Martini

Ingredients:
2.5 oz. Carrot Extract
3   oz. Pisco Italia
1   oz  Cane Syrup
0.5 oz. Lime juice
Ice cubes
Decoration: Carrot slices, placed inside the glass.

     
Verdecito
Method: Liquefied:
Serving Glass: Margarita

Ingredients:
2.5  oz. Pisco Torontel
12 – 15 Spearmint leaves
30 – 35 grams of Sugar
0.5 oz. Lime zest
Crushed Ice
Decoration: A Sprig of Spearmint

Strawberry Collins
Method: Direct
Serving Glass: Long

Ingredients:
2.5 oz. Pisco Acholado with Strawberries
0.25 oz. Lime juice
0.25 oz. Cane Sugar
Sliced Strawberries
Largue Ice cubes
Complete the drink with sparkling wáter

Pisco bilingual magazine

In the land of Pisco... Pisco & Cuisine: "Lomo saltado"

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).


Translated by Katrina Heimark

 

A little bit of history...

After Ramon Castilla abolished slavery on December 3, 1854, the huge demand for workers on the costal haciendas was filled by Coolies, who were workers from India, China and other Asian countries, and who had a low level of work qualifications.

Lomo Saltado is a typical Peruvian dish, which is the product of the fusion of two cuisines which date back thousands of years, the Peruvian and the Chinese. The dish was originally called Lomito de Vaca, Lomito Saltado, and Lomito a la Chorrillana.

Saltado, in Spanish, comes from the term salteado, or sauté, which is the technique of frying food in a pan or a wok over high heat.
In those days, the dish was only prepared in the back areas or “chinganas” of the Central Market of Lima, and in the northern areas of the Lima province, such as Huacho, Paramonga, Barranca and Huaral.
The upper and middle class of Peru were against visiting these areas, and eating there was not always well-looked upon. These were the areas of the masses, led principally by the Chinese. Thus, both Lomo Saltado and Tacu Tacu, which are now popular traditional dishes, came from some peoples’ necessity to eat in lower-class restaurants, where they could eat well, but at a very low price.




In 1915, the first record of Lomo Saltado appeared in a newspaper article, and not that of a cookbook, as the cookbooks of the time did not record this dish. Only in 1928 were Carne Saltada and Lomo a la Criolla included, which have evolved into the flambéed version that we have today. The Cantonese influence can be noted in the use of the wok.

Lomo Saltado is easy to prepare, and contains a mix of flavors, where each ingredient brings an important quality to the dish.
It was originally served without potatoes, and with a lot of vegetables. Later, the potatoes were added, and were served boiled, not fried.

Today Lomo Saltado is a typical Peruvian dish, very well known, appreciated and also one of the most popular in Peru. It truly and worthily represents our incomparable cuisine.

Investigative work: History of Cuisine Course
Escuela Peruana de Sommeliers 2011

Lomo Saltado

By Chef of Cuisine - Johann Knell.

Ingredients
100ml of Quebranta Pisco
1 tsp of crushed garlic
2 tsp of chopped aji limo
1 kilo of beef tenderloin
½ kilo thickly sliced red onion
½ kilo plum tomatoes, cut in quarters
1 kilo white or yellow potatoes
3 finely sliced aji amarillo
Soy sauce, to taste
Fresh cilantro, chopped
Thyme, to taste
Red wine vinegar
Salt and Pepper
Oil for frying

Preparation:
Cut the meat into strips, approximately 1 ½ cm thick

Add enough oil to cover the base of a frying pan or wok, and heat over medium heat. Fry the garlic and the aji limo for two minutes, increase heat. Add the meat and brown. Deglaze with Quebranta Pisco and flambé. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of fresh thyme.

Remove the meat and all juices from pan, reserving the juice to keep the meat moist.

Add a little oil to the pan, if necessary, and fry the onion until tender, approximately one minute. Season with salt and pepper.

Add a splash of vinegar and continue to sauté until the vinegar evaporates, approximately one minute. The onion should be slightly firm. Remove the onion and repeat the procedure with the tomato.

In a different frying pan, fry the potatoes until brown. Remove with a slotted spoon, dry on paper towels, and add salt to taste.

Mix the meat, onion and tomato back in the first frying pan. Add the aji amarillo and soy sauce. Cook for about half a minute. Add the French fries and mix everything carefully.  Garnish with fresh cilantro and serve immediately with white rice.

Chicken or shrimp may also be substituted for the beef, following the above procedures.

elpiscoesdelperu


 

In the land of Pisco... Pisco and Cuisine "Lucuma Meringue"

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).


A little history…

José María Arguedas (the foremost Peruvian writer who covered indigenous issues in Peru), told the story of how the lúcuma, a beautiful and exquisite fruit of Peruvian origin, came to be. However, there is another tale that is very similar to the story often heard in the Central Peruvian Andes, principally in Huanuco, as told by the people of Aguamiro, as well as another version from Ancash, as told by the people of Chiquian. According to this legend, the priest and father of Andean agriculture, Huatio, appeared on Earth in the ragged form of an Indian and was hated by everyone. People even threw dirt in his face. Huatio is thought to be the craftsman of the Andes and their irrigation channels.

During that time, there was a holy woman named Lúcuma. She was very beautiful, proud, and was so contemptuous that no man would pay attention to her. The story says that while she was resting in the shade of a tree called “lugma” or “lúcuma,” Huatio appeared in the form of a beautiful bird. He caused a fruit, in which he had previously deposited his semen, from the tree to fall towards the woman. Lúcuma, when she took hold of the fruit, became pregnant, even though she had never been with a man. When her son was born, she breast-fed him. After a year, when the child began to move about, he asked the men of the village to clarify which one of them was his father.


They gathered in the skirts of the PUNCHAO (which is the ancient name of the Sun. It means light, clarity, and is a location in the department of Huanuco). Since all the men wanted to marry the goddess, they arrived in their best clothing, all according to their rank. Lúcuma asked the men to tell her son who his father was. As they all kept  silent, she told her son to identify his father. He crawled to Huatio, and sat at his feet. When the child reached Huatio, who had again taken the form of a dirty and ragged Indian, the child hugged him and laughed happily. Lúcuma felt so embarrassed to have had a son by such a dirty man that she decided to leave the village and flee to the high mountains. Huatio thought that he would be able to change her mind, so he dressed himself with rich gold adornments and asked Lúcuma to look upon him. But the woman was so full of pride that she didn’t want to turn her head and look at him.
She began to walk even faster. Lúcuma reached the highest mountains and began to cry because of her misfortune. Her tears were black. It is said that her bitter tears formed an algae that is in the shape of a teardrop and is black in color. It is known today as Cushuro or Murmunta (from the Quechua word Hikunta, which means to cry bitterly), or Llullucha (from the Quechua word Llachapa, which means little man in tatters).

The Lúcuma is a beautiful fruit with a green peel, yellow pulp and a shiny brown pit. The pulp is coarse and the pit is very hard and covered with an impenetrable brown film. The Indians in the region identify the description of the fruit to be similar to the description of the proud woman. It just so happens that in Peru this fruit ripens during the months of March and April, just as the Cushuro, Murmunta or Llullucha plants ripen.

 

Lucuma Meringue

 

Chef of Cuisine - Johann Knell.


 

Ingredients
3 egg whites
½ cup (200 grams) granulated sugar


For the filling:
4 peeled and segmented Lucumas.
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
For the Chantilly cream:
2 cups whipping cream
¼ cup powdered sugar

Preparation
Preheat the oven to 110 C (210 F). Grease and flour a large baking pan. Draw 4 circles of approximately 20 cm of diameter. Beat the egg whites with the sugar until stiff. With a pastry bag, fill the circles drawn on the pan. Bake at a low temperature for two hours, until the meringue is crisp and dry, but not golden. 

Filling: In a pot over medium heat cook the water, the sugar and the lime juice until the sugar is dissolved (aprox. 10 minutes). Let cool. When the sugar is cool enough to handle, liquefy it along with the lúcuma. Strain the mixture and eliminate all impurities.

When both preparations (the meringue and the filling) are cool enough, put the meringues on top of one another and fill with the lucuma cream. Fill a pastry bag with the rest of the lucuma cream, and fit with a wide cake decorating tip.

Over a separate bowl of ice, beat the whipping cream and sugar for the Chantilly cream. The ice will make the cream more compact. Cover the side of the cake with a fine layer of Chantilly cream. Decorate the edges and the base of the cake with tiny lucuma cream balls. Serve with chocolate sauce and garnish with chocolate curls.

This dessert can also be made with chirimoya instead of the lucuma, and with a layer of manjar blanco.

Translated by Katrina Heimark

elpiscoesdelperu

In the land of Pisco... How can we appreciate and taste Pisco?

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).


Sight: Evaluate the following factors:

Color
Pisco is a product that is the result of distillation of alcoholic vapors
that are in a fermented must. It must be clear and without color. When these clear vapors are condensed, they must produce a liquid with the same characteristics.

Shine
Shine indicates a process of careful production. A low quality Pisco has a matted and lack-luster appearance.

Cleanliness
There shouldn’t be any particles suspended in the liquid. Nor should there be strings or dark spots, dust in the bottom of the bottle, or stains on the liquid’s surface.

Smell
Delicately bring the cup to your nose. Inhale slowly and gradually for a short second and move the cup away. During the first “nose” one should detect a light yet clear alcoholic aroma. In other words, it should be balanced; without the aggressiveness of the alcohol, nor the dominance of chemical odors.

The taster again lifts the cup and moves the liquid around in order to oxygenate the Pisco. During this second nose, the taster now looks for aromas and smells. One must make an effort to distinguish the intensity or the volume, the nuances and quality of the aromas. One should recognize in the aroma a succession of perfumes that bring to mind fruits, flowers or spices.

Positives: fine, clean, refined, elegant, complex, distinguished, interesting
Negatives: ordinary, vulgar, simple

An agreeable sensation, clean and without defects, is what defines a good Pisco. Complexity, the richness of balanced aromas, distinguishes a great Pisco.

Taste

To begin to appreciate the taste, Pisco is placed in the mouth and after several tastes, one begins to distinguish the flavors separately.

First Swallow:
Designed to perceive the aggression of the alcohol.
Positive: harmonious, agreeable, structured.
Negative: thin, alcoholic

Second Swallow:
Designed to perceive the sensation of the structure also known as body
Positive: round, unctuous, velvety
Negative: thin, narrow, spiny, sparse

Third Swallow:
Designed to perceive flavors, taste and sensations
Positive: fruity, elegant, characteristic, noble.
Negative: rustic and plain.

Sample one more time in order to put together a general impression of the Pisco.


Translate by Katrina Heimark

elpiscoesdelperu

In the land of Pisco... There is no reference of grape brandy distillation in America before Pisco, as far back occurs in Peru.

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).


The earliest historical reference to the preparation of grape eau-de-vie dates back to the early 17th Century. Lorenzo Huertas, renown Peruvian historian, says: “We have found what might be the oldest reference to the preparation of (grape) eau-de-vie not only in Peru, but in America: a document from 1613 mentioning the manufacturing of this liquor in Ica.” The document mentioned by Huertas is the will of Pedro Manuel the Greek, resident of Ica, whose last will stated that, among his properties, he had a Creole slave and “thirty burnay jars filled with eau-de-vie, and a barrel filled with eau-de-vie, that contained thirty little pitchers of such liquor, plus a large lidded copper cauldron used to extract eau-de-vie, and two pultayas, one with a spout and the other smaller and in better conditions.” This is the oldest information found in Peru about eau-de-vie.



However, warns Huertas, although the will is dated 1613, eau-de-vie production instruments were used in earlier years. (Research by Dr. Lorenzo Huertas Vallejos, Producción de Vinos y sus derivados en Ica, Siglos XVI y XVII [Production of wine and its byproducts in Ica, 16th and 17th Centuries], Lima, 1988.)



elpiscoesdelperu

In the Land of Pisco... Getting to know our Pisco The Quebranta Grape

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of history & tradition (1613-2013)


The Quebranta grape variety originates from the Pisco valley along the southern coast of Peru.

Pisco is processed with Quebranta Grapes. This is the variety that comes from the genetic mutation from the black grape brought by the Spanish, which happened due to the plants’ adaptation to the environmental conditions (rocky soil and desert climate in the Pisco Province, and which extends to the valleys in the departments of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and some valleys in Tacna where there are very similar conditions).

The Quebranta grape is a non-aromatic variety, with a very particular taste, that gives unmistakable flavor to the grape firewater, Pisco. Later, other types of
Pisco were developed, with aromatic varieties of grapes, such as the Italia, Moscatel de Alejandria, Torontel and Albilla.

According to renowned researcher Fernando Rovira, the quebranta grape is an almost round berry, with a thick and tough skin. It is normally large, although its size and color depend on various factors related to its harvest.

Its pulp is meaty and sweet, but a bit harsh to the taste. It is considered to be an excellent Peruvian variety, as it is not similar to any other variety
known around the world. Its rustic nature, a product of its acclimatization to the different soils in the grape producing valleys along the Peruvian southern coast, has also allowed it to become resistant to the Grape
Phylloxera Insect.

The presence of nodules and the insect itself has been proven to be within the roots of the quebranta grape plant, but without the insect affecting in
any way the grapes’ production. This characteristic makes the grape plant itself serve as good root stock (Fernando Rovira, La Industria del Pisco en el Perú, Instituto Nacional de la Promoción Industrial, Banco Industrial, Lima, 1966) (Fernando Rovira, The Pisco Industry in Peru, National Institute of Industrial Promotion, Industrial Bank, Lima 1966).

According to scientific studies carried out by the National Agricultural
University, the following components were found within 100 grams of quebranta grapes:

-Water 81.4 g
-Proteins 0.5g
-Ether Extract 0.1g
-Sugars, Carbohydrates, Fibers, and Other 17.7 g
-Ash 0.3g
-Minerals:
Calcium 14.0mg
Phosphorus 11.0mg
Iron 0.4mg
-Vitamins
Thiamine 0.05mg
Riboflavin 0.07mg
Niacin 0.11mg
Ascorbic Acid 0.70 mg
-Calories 66 cal
-Sugar content in the must: 269 grams per liter
-Tartaric Acid content in the must: 4.22 grams per liter

Translate by Katrina Heimark



elpiscoesdelperu

In the land of Pisco... Principal Descriptors of Pisco

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013)

Translate by Katrina Heimark

Aromas:                                 /       Taste:

Terpenic Grape Piscos (Or Aromatic Grape Piscos)
Albilla
Apricot, apple, lemon, lemongrass / syrup, apricot, pineapple,    
                            golden raisins                                      
Italia
Lemon, orange blossom, jasmine   / lemon, golden   raisins,  golden raisins              lemongrass honey          
 

Moscatel
Apricot, jasmine, tangerine, vanilla / peach compote,   tangerine, nuts, aji                                             


 

Torontel
Lemon blossom, tangerine,   /   syrup, tangerine, golden raisins,   pineapple, golden raisins      chamomile



 

Aromas:                                   /        Taste:
Terpeneless Grape Piscos (Or Non-Aromatic Grape Piscos)

Mollar
Apple, fresh herbs, honey, toffee / apple compote, peach, toffee,                      honey

Negra Criolla
Fresh herbs, apple, pear, honey  / fresh herbs, apple, pear, honey

Quebranta
Banana, hay, apple, raisins      / banana, apple, raisins, pecans

Uvina
Olives, hay, mango, medlar     / olives, hay, mango, banana


 

Pisco
Definition:



Pisco
Definition:
Pisco is the product obtained exclusively from the distillation of fresh Pisco grape must that has recently been fermented. The production of Pisco uses methods that maintain the traditional principles of quality. Pisco is produced along the coast of the departments of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua, and the Locumba, Sama and Caplina Valleys in the department of Tacna.

Types of Pisco:
Pure: Pisco obtained from one Pisco grape variety.

Green Must: Pisco obtained from the distillation of the must of fresh Pisco grapes that had their fermentation interrupted.

Acholado: Pisco obtained from the mix of:
-Aromatic or non-aromatic Pisco grapes (Terpene or non-terpene Pisco Grapes).
-Fresh Must from Aromatic or non-aromatic Pisco grapes (Terpene or non-terpene Pisco Grapes)
-Wines made from Aromatic or non-aromatic Pisco grapes (Terpene or non-terpene Pisco Grapes)
-Piscos from Aromatic or non-aromatic Pisco grapes (Terpene or non-terpene Pisco Grapes).

-Workshops and training in regards to descriptors and the sensory profile of the Pisco grape varieties of Peru Engineer Juan Carlos Palma/ jcpalma@lamolina.edu.pe

-Peruvian Technical Standard for Alcoholic Beverages. Pisco Requirements
-Rules for International competition of Spirited Beverages of Vine Origin 2009

Noches de Cata con Pisco
Sommeliers, Pisco Specialists & Tasters
Gladys Romani
Lucero Villagarcia
Arturo Inga
Livio Pastorino

www.nochesdecata.blogspot.com
nochesdecata@gmail.com

Sponsored by:
Pisco BellaVista



2012

In the Land of Pisco... Regulatory Council on the Pisco Guarantee of Origin

Pisco Peru more tan 400 years of history & tradition (1613-2013).

Translated by Katrina Heimark

The Regulatory Council on the Pisco Guarantee of Origin (CR-DOPISCO) is a civil non-profit association which is subject to the laws and courts of the Republic of Peru, and represents the beneficiaries of the Pisco Guarantee of Origin (SO-DOPISCO). Its principal objective is administrating the DO-PISCO and, among other obligations, care for and defend the quality of Pisco. It is active in Peru and abroad. The association’s headquarters is located in the city of Pisco.
The CR-DOPISCO was authorized by INDECOPI under resolution No. 002378-2011/DSD-INDECOPI on February 14, 2011.

With the objective of integrating the vine to Pisco production chain, and involving those decision-makers of the CR-DOPISCO, the DO-PISCO regulations deal with four principal registries which are: producers, vine-growers, bodegas and tasters. Also there are secondary registries, one of which is “Friends of Pisco,” which is at the disposal of all those who are interested.


The principal functions of the CR-DOPISCO are:
Guarantee the authenticity of Pisco for the consumer by keeping watch over and controlling production, the origin and quality of Pisco for commercialization in the national and international markets.

Generate a system of quality control which includes the necessary analytical and organoleptic exams.

Act within the legal framework in the representation and defense of the general interests of the DO-PISCO.
Control the annual production of Pisco.

The Pisco Production Process
The Harvest: This is the first step in the production of Pisco. Before the grape clusters, which are the raw materials used in Pisco, are harvested, the sugar concentration in the grape juice is measured (degrees brix). When the desired measurement is achieved, the management of the harvest is begun, and the grapes are taken to the bodega.

The Removal: This is the process in which the grapes are removed from the stems that bind them to the cluster. This process can take place either manually or through modern machinery. Via this process, the grape is squeezed and thus begins to release its sweet juices, better known as must.
Maceration: In this process, the squeezed grapes, with pulp, skin and seeds are allowed to sit for various days so that the juice or must acquires some of the typical characteristics of each Pisco grape. Fermentation has already begun, but this process allows for increased characteristics, especially that which is found in the grape skin.

Pressing: In this process, as its name indicates, the grape solids which have been macerated, are pressed or squeezed. This allows the liquid or must to be separated from the solids and for the fermentation process to finalize.
Fermentation: The must, which is now 100% liquid, continues into the fermentation process. This is a natural process due to natural yeast that the grape skins contain. This process lasts approximately 14 days, and at the end of the period, the sweet grape juice has been converted to a “young wine” (which has become an alcohol).

Distillation: This is one of the most important periods in the production of Pisco. It is the action of separating and purification by eliminating the undesired components. This is done by boiling the different liquid components that have made up the young wine (made from Pisco grapes) in alambiques. Once the vapors that have formed are condensed and return to their liquid state, they are in the form of Pisco. In order to obtain Pisco, the wine is distilled only once, in small batches, and directly to the alcohol proof that the producer requires. Copper alambiques are used.

Maturing, or Secondary Fermentation: The Pisco must be stored in “rest” for at least 3 months. This period of maturation takes place in harmless tanks in order to reach an optimum level of the grapes’ organoleptic characteristics before the Pisco is bottled. It can only be stored in glass or ceramic containers, and afterwards, the Pisco is filtered in order to eliminate any sort of natural residual. Pisco may range from 38 to 48 proof, but normally bodegas finish their Pisco at a 42 proof.
Pisco, Grape Firewater, One of a kind. Symbol of Identity and National Heritage
Pisco is a product that is obtained exclusively via the distillation of recently fermented wines, which come from Pisco grapes. Pisco is made by using methods that maintain high quality traditions and principles, and is protected by a Guarantee of Origin. Its production and commercialization are subject to the fulfillment of the DO-PISCO regulations as of February 14, 2011. These regulations are administered by the CR-DOPISCO (www.consejoreguladordelpisco.pe).

What is a “Guarantee of Origin?”
The Guarantee of Origin is understood to be a name of a country, region or a determined area that is used to designate a product that is originally from that area, and whose qualities and characteristics are due exclusively and essentially to that geographic location. This includes natural factures, such as geography, climate, raw materials, etc, and human factors such as history, labor, art, ingenuity, tradition, etc.

This is a description for Pisco in Peru that is similar to that of Tequila in Mexico, Champagne and Cognac in France, Brandy and Sherry in Spain, and multiple other Guarantees of Origin throughout the world.

Pisco Zones or Departments

Production Zone, Pisco Zone, Cultivation Zone: These are the geographical areas as outlined by the Regulations of the Pisco Guarantee of Origin, which includes the coast of the departments of: Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua, and the valleys of Locumba, Sama and Caplima in the department of Tacna.

Coast: The geographical area that extends along the Peruvian coastline, which changes in elevation from 0 meters above sea level to 2000 meters above sea level.

Pisco must have the following organoleptic characteristics:

View: Without color, clear, clean, and brilliant.

Nose: slightly alcoholic, somewhat resembles the grape from which it proceeds, also reminds of ripe or overripe fruits, flowers, very fine structure and balance, without any sort of strange elements.

Mouth: slightly alcoholic, a flavor that somewhat resembles the grape from which it proceeds, includes ripe or overripe fruits, flowery flavors, velvety flavors, clean, intense, very fine, with structure and balance, without any sort of strange elements.

Pisco Grape Varieties
Pisco must be exclusively produced using “Pisco Grapes” cultivated in recognized production areas. Pisco Grapes, their species and their cultivation areas are:

Pisco Grapes
Quebranta
Species: Vitis vinífera
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Negra Criolla
Species: Vitis vinífera
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Mollar
Species: Vitis vinífera
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Italia
Species: Vitis vinífera
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Moscatel
Species: Vitis vinífera
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Albilla
Species: Vitis vinífera L
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Torontel
Species: Vitis vinífera L
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Uvina
Species: Vitisaestivales Cinérea E. Vitis vinífera L
Cultivation Area: Cultivation and Production is limited to the districts of Lunahuana, Pacaran and Zúñiga, in the province of Cañete in the Department of Lima.
The Pisco Grapes range from less aromatic (such as the Quebranta, Negra Criolla, Mollar and Uvina grapes) to the most aromatic (such as the Italia, Moscatel, Albilla and Torontel grapes). The Pisco grapes are known principally for their fruity and floral aromas, among other qualities.

The Following Types of Pisco are Recognized:
Pure Pisco: This is Pisco obtained exclusively from one variety of Pisco grapes.

Mosto Verde Pisco: This Pisco is obtained from the distillation of recently fermented Pisco grapes, but with interrupted fermentation.

Acholado Pisco: This Pisco is obtained from the mix of Pisco grapes, must from Pisco grapes, completely fermented wines (fresh wines) made from Pisco grapes, or Piscos made from Pisco grapes.

Regulatory Council on the Pisco Guarantee of Origin
Av. Benavides 2426 of. 203 Miraflores
Lima 18, Perú Telefax: (511) 2664626
mail@consejoreguladordelpisco.pe
www.consejoreguladordelpisco.pe
National Association of Pisco Producers



elpiscoesdelperu

In the land of Pisco... Getting to know our Pisco

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).

Continuing with our section “Getting to know our Pisco,” this month we present another of our non-aromatic Pisco varieties: the Mollar.

Mollar Grape
Name: Mollar.

It is a non-aromatic variety with a bright red copper color. It is generally produced in small quantities and often found growing in the shade of Quebranta grape plants.

Origin: The Canary Islands, Spain


Name Origin: The Mollar grape, which can be white or red, derives its name from the way it is grown and shaped. A stick from the “molle” plant (which produces either Aguaribay or peppers), is planted as a tutor, or a plant for the Mollar grape to graft onto. When the molle plant produces roots, it grows along with the grape variety, offering the plant a means of support along its trunk and branches until it reaches considerable size. This helps ensure elevated production levels, and excellent plant conditions due to the good ventilation and aromatic intensity of the molle’s seeds, which prevent the proliferation of cryptogamic diseases. One can still see old grape vine stock which has been grafted upon the molle trunk.

Other varieties:
Mollar Cano has a high sugar content which is most fully appreciated when served in hot punches, or sweets. Its wines, which are light in color, are not great quality. Also, Almuñeco (La Palma), Listan Morado, Listan Negro (Tenerife), Listan Prieto, Mollar Negro, Negra común (in Lanzarote).

Ampelographic Characteristics
Plant: Variety with a bright red copper color
Root: Conical shape, medium sized, leading off to branches
Fruit: Clusters with medium oval shape, rosy-purplish tint, average diameter 1.3 cm

Cultivated area: from 10 to 100 Hectares.

Work presented by LPW
Career Specialist and Pisco Taster
Tasting Course II IDVIP October 2007

elpiscoesdelperu

Translated by Katrina Heimark 

In the Land of Pisco... Pisco / Peru: the country you’ve never visited "Pozuzo"

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).

By Gillian Autton
South American Explorers

Did you know that there are Peruvians with blonde-hair and blue-eyes living in the Peruvian Central Jungle? Did you know that they also speak German and dance the polka?

An approximate 10-hour journey from Lima will take you to the towns of Oxapampa and Pozuzo, the site of a German-Austrian colony, which still today maintains many German customs and foods. The most interesting thing about this colony is its unique mix of German and Peruvian culture. If you have the opportunity to visit, it is definitely worth it!

History
The towns of Pozuzo and Oxapampa were founded in 1891 by German-Austrian colonists. The colonization originated in 1853 with an agreement between Baron Damian Freiherr von Schutz-Holzhausen and the Peruvian government to bring 10,000 colonists from Prussia. After a four-month rough boat trip, the colonists arrived at Callao, near Lima, where they encountered a civil war. While some of the colonists remained in Lima, most moved to the jungle through the Port of Huacho, and toward their final destination, which is today called Pozuzo.

Although 10,000 colonists left Prussia, only 170 actually finished the 2-year journey to Pozuzo, with some dying but most settling in towns along the way. In 1891, Father José Egg established Pozuzo as an important cattle-raising town.
Today about one-third of the inhabitants of Pozuzo and Oxapampa are descendants of the German colonists. It is common to see locals with blonde hair and blue eyes, and traditional German wooden chalets can be found dotted across the countryside.
In Pozuzo, the German influence is even greater. Most still speak the language and eat the traditional foods of their ancestors.

What to do?
While the history and culture of the area is its main attraction, there are also a number of activities you can participate in here. Oxapampa has a bat cave, which you can tour and explore. There is also a sugarcane farm nearby, and not far outside Oxapampa is the Catarata El Encanto (The Waterfalls of Enchantment), which are 3 sets of waterfalls, with deep plunging pools. Near Oxapampa, the Yanachaga National Park is a recognized UNESCO biosphere reserve. It serves as a home to various orchids, cedars, deer, 427 different bird species and the spectacled bear. It is also the home to the Yánesh and Ashánika native communities. Definitely worth a visit!

In Pozuzo, rafting and canoeing are popular activities. In addition, the central plaza is home to the 18th century San José church, and the Schafferer Museum, which holds a small but very interesting collection of antiques and photos from colonial times. You may also take a walk to see a traditional house. The walk is beautiful – it gives you a great opportunity to appreciate the wide range of flora and fauna, and once you get to the house, you can also visit the Museo Egg Vogt. Nearby is Recreo Guacamayo, which is made up of natural swimming pools, as well as a viewing point for Gallitos de las Rocas, Peru’s national bird.

This area is especially great to visit during the holidays. In March/April, during Holy Week, there are many celebrations and parties, food and dancing. The date changes every year though, so check before you go. The Selvámonos festival, an annual festival held in October, celebrates the cultural background of these towns. The festival promotes the local food (a mix of German and Peruvian), artists and dances, and even has circus acts as entertainment! If you are in the area during October, this is definitely one place you can’t miss!

Getting There
There are direct buses from Lima to Oxapampa through Transportes Oxapampa and Lobato. This is a 10-hour trip, but if you want to break it up, you can book a trip to San Ramon or La Merced, then take a colectivo to Oxapampa. To get to Pozuzo, you can take one of the four daily colectivos from Oxapampa.

South American Explorers
For more information on Oxapampa and Pozuzo, visit the South American Explorers clubhouse, where you can buy our North Jungle info pack! We are located at Calle Piura 135, Miraflores (near Av. Arequipa). South American Explorers is an independent traveler’s club. We are a non-profit organization that provides information to travelers and a home-away-from-home in South America. We have clubhouses in Lima, Cusco, Quito and Buenos Aires. For further information on the club and our member benefits, visit us at: www.saexplorers.org

We would like to thank Mrs. Gillian Autton for allowing us to post this article.

Translate by Katrina Heimark



elpiscoesdelperu

In the lando of Pisco... Peruvians and the Chilcano de Pisco week

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613 -2013). 

It has been five years since the Peruvian cocktail, Chilcano de Pisco, was distinguished for the first time with a whole week of celebrations on its honor. This year, Chilcano’s Week, will be celebrated from January 10th to January 19th under the motto, ‘Learn about Pisco, learn about Peru.’
Chilcano’s Week begins this January 9th with an inaugural tour featuring an imaginary journey over the five regions where Pisco is produced: Arequipa, Ica, Lima, Moquegua, and Tacna.

If you are lucky to have a bottle of the Peruvian white spirit, Pisco, you may want to try making a Chilcano de Pisco at home; the following is the recipe:

Ingredients:
Ice cubes
2 oz. of Pisco
¼ oz. of lime juice
2 slices of lime
Ginger Ale

Method: Mix Pisco, 1 slice of lime, and lime juice, in a long glass (highball). And then, add ice and top with ginger ale.
Garnishment:  1 slice of lime on the edge of the glass.



elpiscoesdelperu

In the land of Pisco... Pisco Gatherings "A Story in New York"

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613 -2013)

By: José Antonio Luna Caballero

Translate by Katrina Heimark

My wife and I made it through the end of the 90s and by the start of the new millennium we had been settled in New York for some 7 or 8 years. It isn’t important to discuss the details of why we made the trip, but a small summary in regards to our principal motive will help the reader understand the love and affection we have for our Peru. I am an architect and a musician at heart, and the principal reason that we moved here was the deepening of my knowledge of the guitar as applied to jazz music, as well as practicing my profession. My intention was to meld our music, above all, Afro-Peruvian music, with jazz, a combination that today many very good Peruvian musicians develop and practice.

As is typical with “temporary” immigrants, in the end, different motives or circumstances make the majority of us put down roots here. I brought with me, to this New York neck of the woods, my unblemished attachment to our land, its culture and its grandeur despite the fact that over those years the news in Peru was, principally, negative. But if during those tragic years and despite everything, I always defended what was ours, I did so even more so when things changed. It was then that the first “New Latino” restaurants were inaugurated which flaunted some Peruvian dishes--more in name than in flavor--but it was the first step towards what would come next. Among the first Latino chefs to become famous was Douglas Rodriguez, a son of Cuban immigrants and student of various Latin cuisines. He spent time in Peru, particularly in the northern regions, collecting flavors and Peruvian drinks, to later collaborate with a man of Irish descent in the opening of the famous Chicama restaurant on 18th Street in Manhattan. The first restaurant of this kind was El Patria on Park Avenue and 23rd Street. In these quality restaurants, which appear to be under an order of permanence and seniority in this country, Latin drinks are served along with Latin food, the first of which is the Margarita of Mexico, the Mojito of Cuba, the Caipirihna of Brazil and of course, the Pisco Sour… In those new restaurants that were multiplying across Manhattan and that we visited time and time again, we would always check the menu for Latin drinks and dishes. In the descriptions that normally followed, we sometimes found definitions such as this: Pisco Sour: Chilean Brandy mixed with lime, sugar, etc.

Then a friend of mine, an Argentine reporter and I, in a sort of Peruvian-Argentine Society, launched a campaign to clarify and promote the authenticity and origin of Pisco. Many times, and when necessary, we called the managers of the restaurants in order to explain to them in technical terms and with proof, why Pisco is Peruvian. Once in one of those restaurants which was called Sonora, the manager, at our insistence, responded that he was going to change the menu, but for increased assurance against the possibility that someone would refute the claim, or even complain, he asked for my name and number, which I gladly gave him.

Of course, no one ever called me… Sometime later, we returned to the same location to make sure that he had fulfilled his promise, and to our grand surprise, the menu said: Pisco Sour, Peruvian cocktail made with Original Peruvian Pisco… and if you disagree, talk to Jose Luna; he can be reached at telephone number… Seeing that filled me with pride, as today many restaurants and bars that offer Pisco Sour present it for what it is: Peruvian. Like everything in this city, when it grows, it grows exponentially. We can no longer track down every restaurant that serves our national drink, but this we can do: thanks to the labor of many Peruvians, like in my case, who have gone ahead with patience and affection, we continue to defend our Pisco. We have taken the lead and ratified, once again, that Pisco is of Peruvian origin, from a city south of Lima called Pisco, and that an exquisite combination has given birth to the unequalled and unique Pisco Sour.

July 2009

Tertulias pisqueras

Una Historia en New York (Versión Resumida)
Escribe: José Antonio Luna Caballero

Corrían los años finales de los noventas y comienzos del 2000 cuando para entonces hacían unos siete u ocho años que mi esposa y yo nos afincamos en Nueva York. No viene al caso entrar en pormenores del porqué de ese viaje pero una pequeña reseña del motivo principal ayudará a entender ese amor y cariño por lo nuestro, por nuestro Perú. Soy arquitecto y músico de corazón y la razón principal de nuestro traslado aquí fue la especialización de mis conocimientos de guitarra aplicados al jazz. y la práctica de mi profesión. Mi intención era lograr fusionar nuestra música, sobre todo la afro peruana con el jazz, combinación que hoy practican y desarrollan muy buenos músicos peruanos.

Como es típico con los inmigrantes "temporales", diversos motivos o circunstancias hacen que en su mayoría terminemos echando raíces aquí. Traje conmigo a estos lares nuevayorquinos, mi acendrado apego a nuestra tierra, su cultura y su grandeza pese a que por esos años las noticias del Perú eran en su mayoría negativas. Pero si durante esos aciagos años y a pesar de todo siempre salía en defensa de lo nuestro, con mayor razón, cuando se revirtió la situación. Entonces se empezaban a inaugurar los primeros restaurantes "Nuevo Latino" que ostentaban algunos platos peruanos -mas de nombre que de sabor- pero ya era un primer paso hacia lo que vendría después. Entre los primeros "chefs" latinos se hizo famoso Douglas Rodríguez, hijo de inmigrantes cubanos y estudioso de varias cocinas latinas.

Estuvo en el Perú, particularmente en el norte recogiendo sabores de comidas y tragos peruanos, para luego en colaboración con un descendiente de irlandés abrir el famoso restaurante Chicama de la calle 18 en Manhattan. El primer restaurante de ese tipo fue el Patria en Park Avenue y la calle 23 y en esos locales de calidad, aparecen por orden de permanencia y antigüedad en este país, junto con la comida latina, los tragos latinos, primero la margarita de México, el mojito de Cuba, la caipirihna de Brasil y por supuesto el Pisco Sour… Allí es que en estos nuevos restaurantes que se multiplicaban por Manhattan y que recorrimos una y otra vez, al revisar la carta con los platos y tragos latinos, en la descripción que solía acompañarlos, encontrábamos algunas veces definiciones como esta: Pisco Sour, Brandy chileno mezclado con limón, azúcar, etc. etc.

Entonces un amigo periodista argentino y yo, en una suerte de sociedad peruano-argentina, emprendimos la campaña de aclarar y promover la autenticidad y origen del Pisco, llamando muchas veces y cuando era necesario a los gerentes de los locales en donde nos encontrábamos, para explicarles de forma técnica y con pruebas, porqué el Pisco es peruano. Alguna vez en uno de esos restaurantes cuyo nombre era Sonora, el gerente ante nuestra insistencia, respondió que iba a cambiar la carta pero para mayor seguridad por si alguien lo refutaba o reclamaba, pidió mi nombre y mi teléfono, a lo que accedí gustosamente. Por supuesto nadie nunca me llamó… Un tiempo después regresamos al mismo local para cerciorarnos de que había cumplido y para nuestra grata sorpresa, ya en el Menú figuraba: Pisco Sour, cocktail peruano elaborado con Pisco original del Perú, y si no, pregúntenle a José Luna, teléfono tal... Esto me llenó de orgullo pues hoy en día muchos restaurantes y bares que ofrecen Pisco Sour, lo presentan como lo que es, Peruano.

Como todo en esta ciudad, cuando crece, crece exponencialmente, ya no podríamos seguirle el paso a todos los locales que expenden nuestra bebida de bandera, pero eso sí, gracias a la labor de muchos peruanos como es mi caso, que con paciencia y cariño por lo nuestro hemos salido y seguiremos saliendo en defensa de nuestro Pisco, hemos ganado la delantera y ratificado una vez más que el Pisco es de origen peruano, de una ciudad al Sur de Lima llamada Pisco, y que su combinación exquisita da lugar al inigualable y único, Pisco Sour.



Julio 2009

In the Land of Pisco... Monthly Contributors "The Magic of Pisco"

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013)

By Lucero Villgarcia and Hans Hilburg Translate by Katrina Heimark There are various varieties that exist in the world that come from grapes and wine, such as Cognac, Armagnac, Brandy, Chilean distilled drinks, as well as our marvelous Pisco. What makes our distilled beverage different are the climates of the coastal valleys of Peru; they have so much sun and so much dryness that the grapes, by themselves, produce an excellent grade of sugar. This is ideal in order to achieve a good alcohol proof, and does not require a second distillation, as occurs with other beverages. The alcohol grade increases so much, when a drink is distilled twice, that it is necessary to add water to regulate the proof, which in the case of Pisco is unnecessary, as well as completely prohibited. Also, the second distillation causes the loss of the natural smells and flavors of the grapes. These harvests must be stored in casks in order for them to absorb the smells and flavors of the wood, as well as the color, which is also unnecessary, and not permitted for Pisco. There are also other distilled grapes, such as the Italian Grappa, but this is the distillation of the strong alcoholic liquor from grape pressings, or the seeds and skins , which will be overwhelmed after the elaboration of the grape whose destiny was to make wine. If all distilled drinks have their own characteristics, which makes them very pleasant, for us Peruvians, pisco is the purest and finest distilled beverage because as we have seen, no water is added to it nor isn’t stored in casks which alters its smell and flavor. Our spirit brings out from eight sensory-different varieties, each characteristic and of typical nature, which is precisely the “magic of Pisco.” Exactly because each cup has different smells and flavors, just like with wines. Also, we have non-aromatic “pure” piscos, such as the Quebranta, a variety with strong intensity in the mouth, gives us smells and flavors of banana, passion fruit, chocolate, raisons and herbal touches. The Negra Criolla brings us smells and aromas of spices, vegetables, raisons, chocolate, honey, and grass. The Mollar is highlighted for its Apple, floral, herb and yeasty tones, and the Uvina is characterized by its touch of olives, as well as red fruits, the mango and strawberries. If we discuss pure aromatic Piscos, called thus due to the fact that their smells are more intense and expressive. We also have the Italia, where you will clearly find citrus, tropical fruits, melon, floral tones, lemongrass, syrup, red raisons. Finally, we have the Torontel, a very expressive variety that encompasses us in its white flowers, jasmine, geraniums, citruses, sweet touches, and a sort of toffee flavor. Also, as if these varieties weren’t enough, we have the “Acholado” piscos, which are blends made from two grape varieties or more, and “mosto verde” to those that are the fermentation for the creation of more molt, all should also have their own characteristics, depending on the grapes that were used in the elaboration process. Pisco is a magical distilled drink, due to its versatility and generosity with cocktails. It brings out flavors and smells, giving them a very special touch, as it is a fresh distilled product, without any additives or manipulation in its production. And its alcohol proof, without any modification, gives it advantages over other distilled products that have sugar, and are affected by wood and water. It is because of this that it is possible to create an infinity of cocktails with the numbers of flowers, fruits, and spices from our three regions, as diverse as the number of pisco varieties. Just by placing a bit of flavor, passion and integration, one may have the bottle of Pisco in their hand. elpiscoesdelperu

In the Land of Pisco... Letters to The Editor

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition

Business Opportunities Write to us at editors@elpiscoesdelperu.com Translate by Katrina Heimark 1. What can we do so that Peruvian Pisco is sold in France at a competitive price? I live in Yvelines, whose capital is Versalles. Paul Andre Makaliz3@gmail.com 2. I’m Peruvian. I live six months of the year in California, three months in Mexico (my wife is Mexican), and three months in Peru. I would like to contact a company that exports Pisco and would like to have a representative abroad. I am a Real Estate Broker in California and Mexico, and in the process of retirement. I want to put my 40 years of experience in various businesses in the service of Peruvian Pisco. I have a few contacts with vineyard owners in Napa, California. Congratulations on your website. Cesar canchante@hotmail.com 3. How can I make a business with a small quantity of Pisco? Italo Sanchez Tohalino ipsancheztohalino@gmail.com 4. Dear Sirs, I would appreciate it if you could send more information on how to export pisco, as I am interested in beginning this business and meet Pisco producers, and develop my own brand, as well as learn how to export and earn money with this business. Regards Carlos Peñaranda carlos_roberto125@hotmail.com 5. Good Morning. I’ve read your email and I am very interested in promoting Pisco here (Portugal). I always try to do something, but on a very small scale, and I am trying to participate in small cuisine events, but my biggest limitation is the ability to obtain Pisco. Here it is very expensive (500ml cost 25 Euros), and there is no support from the Embassy. My idea is to organize, through the wine tasting and firewater circles here, the participation with Pisco in a continuous manner, especially for our compatriots in Madrid, who are the closest to be able to participate. In order to participate one must have a variety of piscos, and here we only have one brand and one type of Pisco harvest. Hugs, Marco L. marcoleyp@gmail.com 6. Hi, I live in New York and I heard about you through Cadena Sur. I would like you to tell me if you know where I can get all the varieties of Pisco here in New York, I live in Maspeth. Once I’ve purchased acholado and quebranta, and it took luck, because it isn’t something you do every day purchase Pisco, and you must request it from the liquor store.! The only brand they sell in NY is Ocucaje. Well, I hope you can help. I Thank you and congratulate you on your website! Good luck, from all my heart. Long live Peru!! Cecilia Pinillos marce-toli@hotmail.com 7. Please send me information about the opportunity to have business with pisco in the United States. I would appreciate it if you could send information as soon as possible, as I am planning to visit Peru, and I would like to have information before I travel. Sincerely, Cesar M. Marius Fax (240) 473 - 6856 CMMARIUS@AOL.COM CMMARIUS@aol.com 8.-I would like to know waht type of business oportunities I could have with the distribution of nwe products in Nwe Jersey. Eduardo Poma poma20@verizonb.net 9. I would like to know more about these business opportunities. I am starting a company whose goal is the Pisco industry. Thanks for your response. Nana Luzmila milita_rodas@yahoo.es 10.-Hello Livio, Where can I buy Pisco in Western Australia? Cheers Emmanuel Blondel wisdomad@bigpond.net.au elpiscoesdelperu

In the land of Pisco... Notes on the History of Wine and Pisco from Arequipa

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613 -2013).

By Alejandro Málaga Núñez-Zeballos Universidad Nacional de San Agustín de Arequipa Academia Peruana del Pisco Pachamama Andean Tourist Review Translate by Katrina Heimark Among the notary protocols that the Regional Archive of Arequipa posses, there are those protocols developed by the public scribe Gaspar Hernández Mariño, whose first writing dates from 1550 and his last from 1585. It amounts to a document-rich history of 19 codices that have suffered from the severity of time and the theft of some folios of particular interest. Currently they are held in an adequate location and at the service of research. From these writings, I include some singular extracts. October 8, 1565. Merchant Mateo Sánchez, foreigner, owed to ex-mayor Juan de la Torre, the amount of 1879 pesos and 4 silver tomines of 4 pesos. The mark without quintars for use for 756 bottles of Pitay wine, of which 400 bottles were priced 4 silver pesos and 356 and the quintals of raisons were priced 6.5 pesos for each quintal. In 1568, Diego Hernández de la Cuba, neighbor of the city, sold to Alonso Nuñez, Presbyterian clergyman, his entire wine harvest from the land of the vine Lluculla, at the price of 3 common silver pesos per bottle. It was promised “a boca de tinaja” in the month of August. Alonso Núñez had to find the earthenware jugs (tinajas) in order to take the wine. That same year, Juan del Salto, resident of the city, received from Juan de Quiróz Vélez 101 bottles of wine from the earth that cost 505 pesos, 20 bottles of wine from Castilla at 10 pesos, 200 pesos; 5 bottles of vinegar, at 6 pesos each. In 1569, there is a writing of a contract between Diego García Serrano and Bartolomé López, residents of the city. Bartolomé López chartered to Diego García Serrano 250 bottles of White wine from Castilla that he had in the city, and they were transported in “carneros” of the earth to Cusco. They left on August 25 and in the lapse of 40 to 45 days they arrived at their destination. For the same destination, Isidro López sold to Pedro Gonzáles 150 bottles of wine in stock of the harvest from his land of the Pitay de Juan de la Torre. Placed in the Pitay bodega, the price of each bottle of wine in stock was 2 and a half pesos of common silver. That year, Mrs. Juana Muñiz, neighbor of Arequipa, made a contract for 5 years with the councilor of the Town Council, don Diego Cornejo, in order to produce on a piece of land with grapes in the valley of Vítor, purchasing and planting 50,000 grape vines. This is the oldest date that indicates that a woman was active in this area. elpiscoesdelperu