In the land of Pisco... Pisco & Cuisine: "Lomo saltado"

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).


Translated by Katrina Heimark

 

A little bit of history...

After Ramon Castilla abolished slavery on December 3, 1854, the huge demand for workers on the costal haciendas was filled by Coolies, who were workers from India, China and other Asian countries, and who had a low level of work qualifications.

Lomo Saltado is a typical Peruvian dish, which is the product of the fusion of two cuisines which date back thousands of years, the Peruvian and the Chinese. The dish was originally called Lomito de Vaca, Lomito Saltado, and Lomito a la Chorrillana.

Saltado, in Spanish, comes from the term salteado, or sauté, which is the technique of frying food in a pan or a wok over high heat.
In those days, the dish was only prepared in the back areas or “chinganas” of the Central Market of Lima, and in the northern areas of the Lima province, such as Huacho, Paramonga, Barranca and Huaral.
The upper and middle class of Peru were against visiting these areas, and eating there was not always well-looked upon. These were the areas of the masses, led principally by the Chinese. Thus, both Lomo Saltado and Tacu Tacu, which are now popular traditional dishes, came from some peoples’ necessity to eat in lower-class restaurants, where they could eat well, but at a very low price.




In 1915, the first record of Lomo Saltado appeared in a newspaper article, and not that of a cookbook, as the cookbooks of the time did not record this dish. Only in 1928 were Carne Saltada and Lomo a la Criolla included, which have evolved into the flambéed version that we have today. The Cantonese influence can be noted in the use of the wok.

Lomo Saltado is easy to prepare, and contains a mix of flavors, where each ingredient brings an important quality to the dish.
It was originally served without potatoes, and with a lot of vegetables. Later, the potatoes were added, and were served boiled, not fried.

Today Lomo Saltado is a typical Peruvian dish, very well known, appreciated and also one of the most popular in Peru. It truly and worthily represents our incomparable cuisine.

Investigative work: History of Cuisine Course
Escuela Peruana de Sommeliers 2011

Lomo Saltado

By Chef of Cuisine - Johann Knell.

Ingredients
100ml of Quebranta Pisco
1 tsp of crushed garlic
2 tsp of chopped aji limo
1 kilo of beef tenderloin
½ kilo thickly sliced red onion
½ kilo plum tomatoes, cut in quarters
1 kilo white or yellow potatoes
3 finely sliced aji amarillo
Soy sauce, to taste
Fresh cilantro, chopped
Thyme, to taste
Red wine vinegar
Salt and Pepper
Oil for frying

Preparation:
Cut the meat into strips, approximately 1 ½ cm thick

Add enough oil to cover the base of a frying pan or wok, and heat over medium heat. Fry the garlic and the aji limo for two minutes, increase heat. Add the meat and brown. Deglaze with Quebranta Pisco and flambé. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of fresh thyme.

Remove the meat and all juices from pan, reserving the juice to keep the meat moist.

Add a little oil to the pan, if necessary, and fry the onion until tender, approximately one minute. Season with salt and pepper.

Add a splash of vinegar and continue to sauté until the vinegar evaporates, approximately one minute. The onion should be slightly firm. Remove the onion and repeat the procedure with the tomato.

In a different frying pan, fry the potatoes until brown. Remove with a slotted spoon, dry on paper towels, and add salt to taste.

Mix the meat, onion and tomato back in the first frying pan. Add the aji amarillo and soy sauce. Cook for about half a minute. Add the French fries and mix everything carefully.  Garnish with fresh cilantro and serve immediately with white rice.

Chicken or shrimp may also be substituted for the beef, following the above procedures.

elpiscoesdelperu


 

In the land of Pisco... Pisco and Cuisine "Lucuma Meringue"

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).


A little history…

José María Arguedas (the foremost Peruvian writer who covered indigenous issues in Peru), told the story of how the lúcuma, a beautiful and exquisite fruit of Peruvian origin, came to be. However, there is another tale that is very similar to the story often heard in the Central Peruvian Andes, principally in Huanuco, as told by the people of Aguamiro, as well as another version from Ancash, as told by the people of Chiquian. According to this legend, the priest and father of Andean agriculture, Huatio, appeared on Earth in the ragged form of an Indian and was hated by everyone. People even threw dirt in his face. Huatio is thought to be the craftsman of the Andes and their irrigation channels.

During that time, there was a holy woman named Lúcuma. She was very beautiful, proud, and was so contemptuous that no man would pay attention to her. The story says that while she was resting in the shade of a tree called “lugma” or “lúcuma,” Huatio appeared in the form of a beautiful bird. He caused a fruit, in which he had previously deposited his semen, from the tree to fall towards the woman. Lúcuma, when she took hold of the fruit, became pregnant, even though she had never been with a man. When her son was born, she breast-fed him. After a year, when the child began to move about, he asked the men of the village to clarify which one of them was his father.


They gathered in the skirts of the PUNCHAO (which is the ancient name of the Sun. It means light, clarity, and is a location in the department of Huanuco). Since all the men wanted to marry the goddess, they arrived in their best clothing, all according to their rank. Lúcuma asked the men to tell her son who his father was. As they all kept  silent, she told her son to identify his father. He crawled to Huatio, and sat at his feet. When the child reached Huatio, who had again taken the form of a dirty and ragged Indian, the child hugged him and laughed happily. Lúcuma felt so embarrassed to have had a son by such a dirty man that she decided to leave the village and flee to the high mountains. Huatio thought that he would be able to change her mind, so he dressed himself with rich gold adornments and asked Lúcuma to look upon him. But the woman was so full of pride that she didn’t want to turn her head and look at him.
She began to walk even faster. Lúcuma reached the highest mountains and began to cry because of her misfortune. Her tears were black. It is said that her bitter tears formed an algae that is in the shape of a teardrop and is black in color. It is known today as Cushuro or Murmunta (from the Quechua word Hikunta, which means to cry bitterly), or Llullucha (from the Quechua word Llachapa, which means little man in tatters).

The Lúcuma is a beautiful fruit with a green peel, yellow pulp and a shiny brown pit. The pulp is coarse and the pit is very hard and covered with an impenetrable brown film. The Indians in the region identify the description of the fruit to be similar to the description of the proud woman. It just so happens that in Peru this fruit ripens during the months of March and April, just as the Cushuro, Murmunta or Llullucha plants ripen.

 

Lucuma Meringue

 

Chef of Cuisine - Johann Knell.


 

Ingredients
3 egg whites
½ cup (200 grams) granulated sugar


For the filling:
4 peeled and segmented Lucumas.
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
For the Chantilly cream:
2 cups whipping cream
¼ cup powdered sugar

Preparation
Preheat the oven to 110 C (210 F). Grease and flour a large baking pan. Draw 4 circles of approximately 20 cm of diameter. Beat the egg whites with the sugar until stiff. With a pastry bag, fill the circles drawn on the pan. Bake at a low temperature for two hours, until the meringue is crisp and dry, but not golden. 

Filling: In a pot over medium heat cook the water, the sugar and the lime juice until the sugar is dissolved (aprox. 10 minutes). Let cool. When the sugar is cool enough to handle, liquefy it along with the lúcuma. Strain the mixture and eliminate all impurities.

When both preparations (the meringue and the filling) are cool enough, put the meringues on top of one another and fill with the lucuma cream. Fill a pastry bag with the rest of the lucuma cream, and fit with a wide cake decorating tip.

Over a separate bowl of ice, beat the whipping cream and sugar for the Chantilly cream. The ice will make the cream more compact. Cover the side of the cake with a fine layer of Chantilly cream. Decorate the edges and the base of the cake with tiny lucuma cream balls. Serve with chocolate sauce and garnish with chocolate curls.

This dessert can also be made with chirimoya instead of the lucuma, and with a layer of manjar blanco.

Translated by Katrina Heimark

elpiscoesdelperu

In the land of Pisco... How can we appreciate and taste Pisco?

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).


Sight: Evaluate the following factors:

Color
Pisco is a product that is the result of distillation of alcoholic vapors
that are in a fermented must. It must be clear and without color. When these clear vapors are condensed, they must produce a liquid with the same characteristics.

Shine
Shine indicates a process of careful production. A low quality Pisco has a matted and lack-luster appearance.

Cleanliness
There shouldn’t be any particles suspended in the liquid. Nor should there be strings or dark spots, dust in the bottom of the bottle, or stains on the liquid’s surface.

Smell
Delicately bring the cup to your nose. Inhale slowly and gradually for a short second and move the cup away. During the first “nose” one should detect a light yet clear alcoholic aroma. In other words, it should be balanced; without the aggressiveness of the alcohol, nor the dominance of chemical odors.

The taster again lifts the cup and moves the liquid around in order to oxygenate the Pisco. During this second nose, the taster now looks for aromas and smells. One must make an effort to distinguish the intensity or the volume, the nuances and quality of the aromas. One should recognize in the aroma a succession of perfumes that bring to mind fruits, flowers or spices.

Positives: fine, clean, refined, elegant, complex, distinguished, interesting
Negatives: ordinary, vulgar, simple

An agreeable sensation, clean and without defects, is what defines a good Pisco. Complexity, the richness of balanced aromas, distinguishes a great Pisco.

Taste

To begin to appreciate the taste, Pisco is placed in the mouth and after several tastes, one begins to distinguish the flavors separately.

First Swallow:
Designed to perceive the aggression of the alcohol.
Positive: harmonious, agreeable, structured.
Negative: thin, alcoholic

Second Swallow:
Designed to perceive the sensation of the structure also known as body
Positive: round, unctuous, velvety
Negative: thin, narrow, spiny, sparse

Third Swallow:
Designed to perceive flavors, taste and sensations
Positive: fruity, elegant, characteristic, noble.
Negative: rustic and plain.

Sample one more time in order to put together a general impression of the Pisco.


Translate by Katrina Heimark

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In the land of Pisco... There is no reference of grape brandy distillation in America before Pisco, as far back occurs in Peru.

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).


The earliest historical reference to the preparation of grape eau-de-vie dates back to the early 17th Century. Lorenzo Huertas, renown Peruvian historian, says: “We have found what might be the oldest reference to the preparation of (grape) eau-de-vie not only in Peru, but in America: a document from 1613 mentioning the manufacturing of this liquor in Ica.” The document mentioned by Huertas is the will of Pedro Manuel the Greek, resident of Ica, whose last will stated that, among his properties, he had a Creole slave and “thirty burnay jars filled with eau-de-vie, and a barrel filled with eau-de-vie, that contained thirty little pitchers of such liquor, plus a large lidded copper cauldron used to extract eau-de-vie, and two pultayas, one with a spout and the other smaller and in better conditions.” This is the oldest information found in Peru about eau-de-vie.



However, warns Huertas, although the will is dated 1613, eau-de-vie production instruments were used in earlier years. (Research by Dr. Lorenzo Huertas Vallejos, Producción de Vinos y sus derivados en Ica, Siglos XVI y XVII [Production of wine and its byproducts in Ica, 16th and 17th Centuries], Lima, 1988.)



elpiscoesdelperu

In the Land of Pisco... Getting to know our Pisco The Quebranta Grape

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of history & tradition (1613-2013)


The Quebranta grape variety originates from the Pisco valley along the southern coast of Peru.

Pisco is processed with Quebranta Grapes. This is the variety that comes from the genetic mutation from the black grape brought by the Spanish, which happened due to the plants’ adaptation to the environmental conditions (rocky soil and desert climate in the Pisco Province, and which extends to the valleys in the departments of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and some valleys in Tacna where there are very similar conditions).

The Quebranta grape is a non-aromatic variety, with a very particular taste, that gives unmistakable flavor to the grape firewater, Pisco. Later, other types of
Pisco were developed, with aromatic varieties of grapes, such as the Italia, Moscatel de Alejandria, Torontel and Albilla.

According to renowned researcher Fernando Rovira, the quebranta grape is an almost round berry, with a thick and tough skin. It is normally large, although its size and color depend on various factors related to its harvest.

Its pulp is meaty and sweet, but a bit harsh to the taste. It is considered to be an excellent Peruvian variety, as it is not similar to any other variety
known around the world. Its rustic nature, a product of its acclimatization to the different soils in the grape producing valleys along the Peruvian southern coast, has also allowed it to become resistant to the Grape
Phylloxera Insect.

The presence of nodules and the insect itself has been proven to be within the roots of the quebranta grape plant, but without the insect affecting in
any way the grapes’ production. This characteristic makes the grape plant itself serve as good root stock (Fernando Rovira, La Industria del Pisco en el Perú, Instituto Nacional de la Promoción Industrial, Banco Industrial, Lima, 1966) (Fernando Rovira, The Pisco Industry in Peru, National Institute of Industrial Promotion, Industrial Bank, Lima 1966).

According to scientific studies carried out by the National Agricultural
University, the following components were found within 100 grams of quebranta grapes:

-Water 81.4 g
-Proteins 0.5g
-Ether Extract 0.1g
-Sugars, Carbohydrates, Fibers, and Other 17.7 g
-Ash 0.3g
-Minerals:
Calcium 14.0mg
Phosphorus 11.0mg
Iron 0.4mg
-Vitamins
Thiamine 0.05mg
Riboflavin 0.07mg
Niacin 0.11mg
Ascorbic Acid 0.70 mg
-Calories 66 cal
-Sugar content in the must: 269 grams per liter
-Tartaric Acid content in the must: 4.22 grams per liter

Translate by Katrina Heimark



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In the land of Pisco... Principal Descriptors of Pisco

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013)

Translate by Katrina Heimark

Aromas:                                 /       Taste:

Terpenic Grape Piscos (Or Aromatic Grape Piscos)
Albilla
Apricot, apple, lemon, lemongrass / syrup, apricot, pineapple,    
                            golden raisins                                      
Italia
Lemon, orange blossom, jasmine   / lemon, golden   raisins,  golden raisins              lemongrass honey          
 

Moscatel
Apricot, jasmine, tangerine, vanilla / peach compote,   tangerine, nuts, aji                                             


 

Torontel
Lemon blossom, tangerine,   /   syrup, tangerine, golden raisins,   pineapple, golden raisins      chamomile



 

Aromas:                                   /        Taste:
Terpeneless Grape Piscos (Or Non-Aromatic Grape Piscos)

Mollar
Apple, fresh herbs, honey, toffee / apple compote, peach, toffee,                      honey

Negra Criolla
Fresh herbs, apple, pear, honey  / fresh herbs, apple, pear, honey

Quebranta
Banana, hay, apple, raisins      / banana, apple, raisins, pecans

Uvina
Olives, hay, mango, medlar     / olives, hay, mango, banana


 

Pisco
Definition:



Pisco
Definition:
Pisco is the product obtained exclusively from the distillation of fresh Pisco grape must that has recently been fermented. The production of Pisco uses methods that maintain the traditional principles of quality. Pisco is produced along the coast of the departments of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua, and the Locumba, Sama and Caplina Valleys in the department of Tacna.

Types of Pisco:
Pure: Pisco obtained from one Pisco grape variety.

Green Must: Pisco obtained from the distillation of the must of fresh Pisco grapes that had their fermentation interrupted.

Acholado: Pisco obtained from the mix of:
-Aromatic or non-aromatic Pisco grapes (Terpene or non-terpene Pisco Grapes).
-Fresh Must from Aromatic or non-aromatic Pisco grapes (Terpene or non-terpene Pisco Grapes)
-Wines made from Aromatic or non-aromatic Pisco grapes (Terpene or non-terpene Pisco Grapes)
-Piscos from Aromatic or non-aromatic Pisco grapes (Terpene or non-terpene Pisco Grapes).

-Workshops and training in regards to descriptors and the sensory profile of the Pisco grape varieties of Peru Engineer Juan Carlos Palma/ jcpalma@lamolina.edu.pe

-Peruvian Technical Standard for Alcoholic Beverages. Pisco Requirements
-Rules for International competition of Spirited Beverages of Vine Origin 2009

Noches de Cata con Pisco
Sommeliers, Pisco Specialists & Tasters
Gladys Romani
Lucero Villagarcia
Arturo Inga
Livio Pastorino

www.nochesdecata.blogspot.com
nochesdecata@gmail.com

Sponsored by:
Pisco BellaVista



2012

In the Land of Pisco... Regulatory Council on the Pisco Guarantee of Origin

Pisco Peru more tan 400 years of history & tradition (1613-2013).

Translated by Katrina Heimark

The Regulatory Council on the Pisco Guarantee of Origin (CR-DOPISCO) is a civil non-profit association which is subject to the laws and courts of the Republic of Peru, and represents the beneficiaries of the Pisco Guarantee of Origin (SO-DOPISCO). Its principal objective is administrating the DO-PISCO and, among other obligations, care for and defend the quality of Pisco. It is active in Peru and abroad. The association’s headquarters is located in the city of Pisco.
The CR-DOPISCO was authorized by INDECOPI under resolution No. 002378-2011/DSD-INDECOPI on February 14, 2011.

With the objective of integrating the vine to Pisco production chain, and involving those decision-makers of the CR-DOPISCO, the DO-PISCO regulations deal with four principal registries which are: producers, vine-growers, bodegas and tasters. Also there are secondary registries, one of which is “Friends of Pisco,” which is at the disposal of all those who are interested.


The principal functions of the CR-DOPISCO are:
Guarantee the authenticity of Pisco for the consumer by keeping watch over and controlling production, the origin and quality of Pisco for commercialization in the national and international markets.

Generate a system of quality control which includes the necessary analytical and organoleptic exams.

Act within the legal framework in the representation and defense of the general interests of the DO-PISCO.
Control the annual production of Pisco.

The Pisco Production Process
The Harvest: This is the first step in the production of Pisco. Before the grape clusters, which are the raw materials used in Pisco, are harvested, the sugar concentration in the grape juice is measured (degrees brix). When the desired measurement is achieved, the management of the harvest is begun, and the grapes are taken to the bodega.

The Removal: This is the process in which the grapes are removed from the stems that bind them to the cluster. This process can take place either manually or through modern machinery. Via this process, the grape is squeezed and thus begins to release its sweet juices, better known as must.
Maceration: In this process, the squeezed grapes, with pulp, skin and seeds are allowed to sit for various days so that the juice or must acquires some of the typical characteristics of each Pisco grape. Fermentation has already begun, but this process allows for increased characteristics, especially that which is found in the grape skin.

Pressing: In this process, as its name indicates, the grape solids which have been macerated, are pressed or squeezed. This allows the liquid or must to be separated from the solids and for the fermentation process to finalize.
Fermentation: The must, which is now 100% liquid, continues into the fermentation process. This is a natural process due to natural yeast that the grape skins contain. This process lasts approximately 14 days, and at the end of the period, the sweet grape juice has been converted to a “young wine” (which has become an alcohol).

Distillation: This is one of the most important periods in the production of Pisco. It is the action of separating and purification by eliminating the undesired components. This is done by boiling the different liquid components that have made up the young wine (made from Pisco grapes) in alambiques. Once the vapors that have formed are condensed and return to their liquid state, they are in the form of Pisco. In order to obtain Pisco, the wine is distilled only once, in small batches, and directly to the alcohol proof that the producer requires. Copper alambiques are used.

Maturing, or Secondary Fermentation: The Pisco must be stored in “rest” for at least 3 months. This period of maturation takes place in harmless tanks in order to reach an optimum level of the grapes’ organoleptic characteristics before the Pisco is bottled. It can only be stored in glass or ceramic containers, and afterwards, the Pisco is filtered in order to eliminate any sort of natural residual. Pisco may range from 38 to 48 proof, but normally bodegas finish their Pisco at a 42 proof.
Pisco, Grape Firewater, One of a kind. Symbol of Identity and National Heritage
Pisco is a product that is obtained exclusively via the distillation of recently fermented wines, which come from Pisco grapes. Pisco is made by using methods that maintain high quality traditions and principles, and is protected by a Guarantee of Origin. Its production and commercialization are subject to the fulfillment of the DO-PISCO regulations as of February 14, 2011. These regulations are administered by the CR-DOPISCO (www.consejoreguladordelpisco.pe).

What is a “Guarantee of Origin?”
The Guarantee of Origin is understood to be a name of a country, region or a determined area that is used to designate a product that is originally from that area, and whose qualities and characteristics are due exclusively and essentially to that geographic location. This includes natural factures, such as geography, climate, raw materials, etc, and human factors such as history, labor, art, ingenuity, tradition, etc.

This is a description for Pisco in Peru that is similar to that of Tequila in Mexico, Champagne and Cognac in France, Brandy and Sherry in Spain, and multiple other Guarantees of Origin throughout the world.

Pisco Zones or Departments

Production Zone, Pisco Zone, Cultivation Zone: These are the geographical areas as outlined by the Regulations of the Pisco Guarantee of Origin, which includes the coast of the departments of: Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua, and the valleys of Locumba, Sama and Caplima in the department of Tacna.

Coast: The geographical area that extends along the Peruvian coastline, which changes in elevation from 0 meters above sea level to 2000 meters above sea level.

Pisco must have the following organoleptic characteristics:

View: Without color, clear, clean, and brilliant.

Nose: slightly alcoholic, somewhat resembles the grape from which it proceeds, also reminds of ripe or overripe fruits, flowers, very fine structure and balance, without any sort of strange elements.

Mouth: slightly alcoholic, a flavor that somewhat resembles the grape from which it proceeds, includes ripe or overripe fruits, flowery flavors, velvety flavors, clean, intense, very fine, with structure and balance, without any sort of strange elements.

Pisco Grape Varieties
Pisco must be exclusively produced using “Pisco Grapes” cultivated in recognized production areas. Pisco Grapes, their species and their cultivation areas are:

Pisco Grapes
Quebranta
Species: Vitis vinífera
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Negra Criolla
Species: Vitis vinífera
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Mollar
Species: Vitis vinífera
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Italia
Species: Vitis vinífera
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Moscatel
Species: Vitis vinífera
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Albilla
Species: Vitis vinífera L
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Torontel
Species: Vitis vinífera L
Cultivation Area: All Pisco Zones

Uvina
Species: Vitisaestivales Cinérea E. Vitis vinífera L
Cultivation Area: Cultivation and Production is limited to the districts of Lunahuana, Pacaran and Zúñiga, in the province of Cañete in the Department of Lima.
The Pisco Grapes range from less aromatic (such as the Quebranta, Negra Criolla, Mollar and Uvina grapes) to the most aromatic (such as the Italia, Moscatel, Albilla and Torontel grapes). The Pisco grapes are known principally for their fruity and floral aromas, among other qualities.

The Following Types of Pisco are Recognized:
Pure Pisco: This is Pisco obtained exclusively from one variety of Pisco grapes.

Mosto Verde Pisco: This Pisco is obtained from the distillation of recently fermented Pisco grapes, but with interrupted fermentation.

Acholado Pisco: This Pisco is obtained from the mix of Pisco grapes, must from Pisco grapes, completely fermented wines (fresh wines) made from Pisco grapes, or Piscos made from Pisco grapes.

Regulatory Council on the Pisco Guarantee of Origin
Av. Benavides 2426 of. 203 Miraflores
Lima 18, Perú Telefax: (511) 2664626
mail@consejoreguladordelpisco.pe
www.consejoreguladordelpisco.pe
National Association of Pisco Producers



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In the land of Pisco... Getting to know our Pisco

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).

Continuing with our section “Getting to know our Pisco,” this month we present another of our non-aromatic Pisco varieties: the Mollar.

Mollar Grape
Name: Mollar.

It is a non-aromatic variety with a bright red copper color. It is generally produced in small quantities and often found growing in the shade of Quebranta grape plants.

Origin: The Canary Islands, Spain


Name Origin: The Mollar grape, which can be white or red, derives its name from the way it is grown and shaped. A stick from the “molle” plant (which produces either Aguaribay or peppers), is planted as a tutor, or a plant for the Mollar grape to graft onto. When the molle plant produces roots, it grows along with the grape variety, offering the plant a means of support along its trunk and branches until it reaches considerable size. This helps ensure elevated production levels, and excellent plant conditions due to the good ventilation and aromatic intensity of the molle’s seeds, which prevent the proliferation of cryptogamic diseases. One can still see old grape vine stock which has been grafted upon the molle trunk.

Other varieties:
Mollar Cano has a high sugar content which is most fully appreciated when served in hot punches, or sweets. Its wines, which are light in color, are not great quality. Also, Almuñeco (La Palma), Listan Morado, Listan Negro (Tenerife), Listan Prieto, Mollar Negro, Negra común (in Lanzarote).

Ampelographic Characteristics
Plant: Variety with a bright red copper color
Root: Conical shape, medium sized, leading off to branches
Fruit: Clusters with medium oval shape, rosy-purplish tint, average diameter 1.3 cm

Cultivated area: from 10 to 100 Hectares.

Work presented by LPW
Career Specialist and Pisco Taster
Tasting Course II IDVIP October 2007

elpiscoesdelperu

Translated by Katrina Heimark 

In the Land of Pisco... Pisco / Peru: the country you’ve never visited "Pozuzo"

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013).

By Gillian Autton
South American Explorers

Did you know that there are Peruvians with blonde-hair and blue-eyes living in the Peruvian Central Jungle? Did you know that they also speak German and dance the polka?

An approximate 10-hour journey from Lima will take you to the towns of Oxapampa and Pozuzo, the site of a German-Austrian colony, which still today maintains many German customs and foods. The most interesting thing about this colony is its unique mix of German and Peruvian culture. If you have the opportunity to visit, it is definitely worth it!

History
The towns of Pozuzo and Oxapampa were founded in 1891 by German-Austrian colonists. The colonization originated in 1853 with an agreement between Baron Damian Freiherr von Schutz-Holzhausen and the Peruvian government to bring 10,000 colonists from Prussia. After a four-month rough boat trip, the colonists arrived at Callao, near Lima, where they encountered a civil war. While some of the colonists remained in Lima, most moved to the jungle through the Port of Huacho, and toward their final destination, which is today called Pozuzo.

Although 10,000 colonists left Prussia, only 170 actually finished the 2-year journey to Pozuzo, with some dying but most settling in towns along the way. In 1891, Father José Egg established Pozuzo as an important cattle-raising town.
Today about one-third of the inhabitants of Pozuzo and Oxapampa are descendants of the German colonists. It is common to see locals with blonde hair and blue eyes, and traditional German wooden chalets can be found dotted across the countryside.
In Pozuzo, the German influence is even greater. Most still speak the language and eat the traditional foods of their ancestors.

What to do?
While the history and culture of the area is its main attraction, there are also a number of activities you can participate in here. Oxapampa has a bat cave, which you can tour and explore. There is also a sugarcane farm nearby, and not far outside Oxapampa is the Catarata El Encanto (The Waterfalls of Enchantment), which are 3 sets of waterfalls, with deep plunging pools. Near Oxapampa, the Yanachaga National Park is a recognized UNESCO biosphere reserve. It serves as a home to various orchids, cedars, deer, 427 different bird species and the spectacled bear. It is also the home to the Yánesh and Ashánika native communities. Definitely worth a visit!

In Pozuzo, rafting and canoeing are popular activities. In addition, the central plaza is home to the 18th century San José church, and the Schafferer Museum, which holds a small but very interesting collection of antiques and photos from colonial times. You may also take a walk to see a traditional house. The walk is beautiful – it gives you a great opportunity to appreciate the wide range of flora and fauna, and once you get to the house, you can also visit the Museo Egg Vogt. Nearby is Recreo Guacamayo, which is made up of natural swimming pools, as well as a viewing point for Gallitos de las Rocas, Peru’s national bird.

This area is especially great to visit during the holidays. In March/April, during Holy Week, there are many celebrations and parties, food and dancing. The date changes every year though, so check before you go. The Selvámonos festival, an annual festival held in October, celebrates the cultural background of these towns. The festival promotes the local food (a mix of German and Peruvian), artists and dances, and even has circus acts as entertainment! If you are in the area during October, this is definitely one place you can’t miss!

Getting There
There are direct buses from Lima to Oxapampa through Transportes Oxapampa and Lobato. This is a 10-hour trip, but if you want to break it up, you can book a trip to San Ramon or La Merced, then take a colectivo to Oxapampa. To get to Pozuzo, you can take one of the four daily colectivos from Oxapampa.

South American Explorers
For more information on Oxapampa and Pozuzo, visit the South American Explorers clubhouse, where you can buy our North Jungle info pack! We are located at Calle Piura 135, Miraflores (near Av. Arequipa). South American Explorers is an independent traveler’s club. We are a non-profit organization that provides information to travelers and a home-away-from-home in South America. We have clubhouses in Lima, Cusco, Quito and Buenos Aires. For further information on the club and our member benefits, visit us at: www.saexplorers.org

We would like to thank Mrs. Gillian Autton for allowing us to post this article.

Translate by Katrina Heimark



elpiscoesdelperu

In the lando of Pisco... Peruvians and the Chilcano de Pisco week

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613 -2013). 

It has been five years since the Peruvian cocktail, Chilcano de Pisco, was distinguished for the first time with a whole week of celebrations on its honor. This year, Chilcano’s Week, will be celebrated from January 10th to January 19th under the motto, ‘Learn about Pisco, learn about Peru.’
Chilcano’s Week begins this January 9th with an inaugural tour featuring an imaginary journey over the five regions where Pisco is produced: Arequipa, Ica, Lima, Moquegua, and Tacna.

If you are lucky to have a bottle of the Peruvian white spirit, Pisco, you may want to try making a Chilcano de Pisco at home; the following is the recipe:

Ingredients:
Ice cubes
2 oz. of Pisco
¼ oz. of lime juice
2 slices of lime
Ginger Ale

Method: Mix Pisco, 1 slice of lime, and lime juice, in a long glass (highball). And then, add ice and top with ginger ale.
Garnishment:  1 slice of lime on the edge of the glass.



elpiscoesdelperu

In the land of Pisco... Pisco Gatherings "A Story in New York"

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613 -2013)

By: José Antonio Luna Caballero

Translate by Katrina Heimark

My wife and I made it through the end of the 90s and by the start of the new millennium we had been settled in New York for some 7 or 8 years. It isn’t important to discuss the details of why we made the trip, but a small summary in regards to our principal motive will help the reader understand the love and affection we have for our Peru. I am an architect and a musician at heart, and the principal reason that we moved here was the deepening of my knowledge of the guitar as applied to jazz music, as well as practicing my profession. My intention was to meld our music, above all, Afro-Peruvian music, with jazz, a combination that today many very good Peruvian musicians develop and practice.

As is typical with “temporary” immigrants, in the end, different motives or circumstances make the majority of us put down roots here. I brought with me, to this New York neck of the woods, my unblemished attachment to our land, its culture and its grandeur despite the fact that over those years the news in Peru was, principally, negative. But if during those tragic years and despite everything, I always defended what was ours, I did so even more so when things changed. It was then that the first “New Latino” restaurants were inaugurated which flaunted some Peruvian dishes--more in name than in flavor--but it was the first step towards what would come next. Among the first Latino chefs to become famous was Douglas Rodriguez, a son of Cuban immigrants and student of various Latin cuisines. He spent time in Peru, particularly in the northern regions, collecting flavors and Peruvian drinks, to later collaborate with a man of Irish descent in the opening of the famous Chicama restaurant on 18th Street in Manhattan. The first restaurant of this kind was El Patria on Park Avenue and 23rd Street. In these quality restaurants, which appear to be under an order of permanence and seniority in this country, Latin drinks are served along with Latin food, the first of which is the Margarita of Mexico, the Mojito of Cuba, the Caipirihna of Brazil and of course, the Pisco Sour… In those new restaurants that were multiplying across Manhattan and that we visited time and time again, we would always check the menu for Latin drinks and dishes. In the descriptions that normally followed, we sometimes found definitions such as this: Pisco Sour: Chilean Brandy mixed with lime, sugar, etc.

Then a friend of mine, an Argentine reporter and I, in a sort of Peruvian-Argentine Society, launched a campaign to clarify and promote the authenticity and origin of Pisco. Many times, and when necessary, we called the managers of the restaurants in order to explain to them in technical terms and with proof, why Pisco is Peruvian. Once in one of those restaurants which was called Sonora, the manager, at our insistence, responded that he was going to change the menu, but for increased assurance against the possibility that someone would refute the claim, or even complain, he asked for my name and number, which I gladly gave him.

Of course, no one ever called me… Sometime later, we returned to the same location to make sure that he had fulfilled his promise, and to our grand surprise, the menu said: Pisco Sour, Peruvian cocktail made with Original Peruvian Pisco… and if you disagree, talk to Jose Luna; he can be reached at telephone number… Seeing that filled me with pride, as today many restaurants and bars that offer Pisco Sour present it for what it is: Peruvian. Like everything in this city, when it grows, it grows exponentially. We can no longer track down every restaurant that serves our national drink, but this we can do: thanks to the labor of many Peruvians, like in my case, who have gone ahead with patience and affection, we continue to defend our Pisco. We have taken the lead and ratified, once again, that Pisco is of Peruvian origin, from a city south of Lima called Pisco, and that an exquisite combination has given birth to the unequalled and unique Pisco Sour.

July 2009

Tertulias pisqueras

Una Historia en New York (Versión Resumida)
Escribe: José Antonio Luna Caballero

Corrían los años finales de los noventas y comienzos del 2000 cuando para entonces hacían unos siete u ocho años que mi esposa y yo nos afincamos en Nueva York. No viene al caso entrar en pormenores del porqué de ese viaje pero una pequeña reseña del motivo principal ayudará a entender ese amor y cariño por lo nuestro, por nuestro Perú. Soy arquitecto y músico de corazón y la razón principal de nuestro traslado aquí fue la especialización de mis conocimientos de guitarra aplicados al jazz. y la práctica de mi profesión. Mi intención era lograr fusionar nuestra música, sobre todo la afro peruana con el jazz, combinación que hoy practican y desarrollan muy buenos músicos peruanos.

Como es típico con los inmigrantes "temporales", diversos motivos o circunstancias hacen que en su mayoría terminemos echando raíces aquí. Traje conmigo a estos lares nuevayorquinos, mi acendrado apego a nuestra tierra, su cultura y su grandeza pese a que por esos años las noticias del Perú eran en su mayoría negativas. Pero si durante esos aciagos años y a pesar de todo siempre salía en defensa de lo nuestro, con mayor razón, cuando se revirtió la situación. Entonces se empezaban a inaugurar los primeros restaurantes "Nuevo Latino" que ostentaban algunos platos peruanos -mas de nombre que de sabor- pero ya era un primer paso hacia lo que vendría después. Entre los primeros "chefs" latinos se hizo famoso Douglas Rodríguez, hijo de inmigrantes cubanos y estudioso de varias cocinas latinas.

Estuvo en el Perú, particularmente en el norte recogiendo sabores de comidas y tragos peruanos, para luego en colaboración con un descendiente de irlandés abrir el famoso restaurante Chicama de la calle 18 en Manhattan. El primer restaurante de ese tipo fue el Patria en Park Avenue y la calle 23 y en esos locales de calidad, aparecen por orden de permanencia y antigüedad en este país, junto con la comida latina, los tragos latinos, primero la margarita de México, el mojito de Cuba, la caipirihna de Brasil y por supuesto el Pisco Sour… Allí es que en estos nuevos restaurantes que se multiplicaban por Manhattan y que recorrimos una y otra vez, al revisar la carta con los platos y tragos latinos, en la descripción que solía acompañarlos, encontrábamos algunas veces definiciones como esta: Pisco Sour, Brandy chileno mezclado con limón, azúcar, etc. etc.

Entonces un amigo periodista argentino y yo, en una suerte de sociedad peruano-argentina, emprendimos la campaña de aclarar y promover la autenticidad y origen del Pisco, llamando muchas veces y cuando era necesario a los gerentes de los locales en donde nos encontrábamos, para explicarles de forma técnica y con pruebas, porqué el Pisco es peruano. Alguna vez en uno de esos restaurantes cuyo nombre era Sonora, el gerente ante nuestra insistencia, respondió que iba a cambiar la carta pero para mayor seguridad por si alguien lo refutaba o reclamaba, pidió mi nombre y mi teléfono, a lo que accedí gustosamente. Por supuesto nadie nunca me llamó… Un tiempo después regresamos al mismo local para cerciorarnos de que había cumplido y para nuestra grata sorpresa, ya en el Menú figuraba: Pisco Sour, cocktail peruano elaborado con Pisco original del Perú, y si no, pregúntenle a José Luna, teléfono tal... Esto me llenó de orgullo pues hoy en día muchos restaurantes y bares que ofrecen Pisco Sour, lo presentan como lo que es, Peruano.

Como todo en esta ciudad, cuando crece, crece exponencialmente, ya no podríamos seguirle el paso a todos los locales que expenden nuestra bebida de bandera, pero eso sí, gracias a la labor de muchos peruanos como es mi caso, que con paciencia y cariño por lo nuestro hemos salido y seguiremos saliendo en defensa de nuestro Pisco, hemos ganado la delantera y ratificado una vez más que el Pisco es de origen peruano, de una ciudad al Sur de Lima llamada Pisco, y que su combinación exquisita da lugar al inigualable y único, Pisco Sour.



Julio 2009

In the Land of Pisco... Monthly Contributors "The Magic of Pisco"

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013)

By Lucero Villgarcia and Hans Hilburg Translate by Katrina Heimark There are various varieties that exist in the world that come from grapes and wine, such as Cognac, Armagnac, Brandy, Chilean distilled drinks, as well as our marvelous Pisco. What makes our distilled beverage different are the climates of the coastal valleys of Peru; they have so much sun and so much dryness that the grapes, by themselves, produce an excellent grade of sugar. This is ideal in order to achieve a good alcohol proof, and does not require a second distillation, as occurs with other beverages. The alcohol grade increases so much, when a drink is distilled twice, that it is necessary to add water to regulate the proof, which in the case of Pisco is unnecessary, as well as completely prohibited. Also, the second distillation causes the loss of the natural smells and flavors of the grapes. These harvests must be stored in casks in order for them to absorb the smells and flavors of the wood, as well as the color, which is also unnecessary, and not permitted for Pisco. There are also other distilled grapes, such as the Italian Grappa, but this is the distillation of the strong alcoholic liquor from grape pressings, or the seeds and skins , which will be overwhelmed after the elaboration of the grape whose destiny was to make wine. If all distilled drinks have their own characteristics, which makes them very pleasant, for us Peruvians, pisco is the purest and finest distilled beverage because as we have seen, no water is added to it nor isn’t stored in casks which alters its smell and flavor. Our spirit brings out from eight sensory-different varieties, each characteristic and of typical nature, which is precisely the “magic of Pisco.” Exactly because each cup has different smells and flavors, just like with wines. Also, we have non-aromatic “pure” piscos, such as the Quebranta, a variety with strong intensity in the mouth, gives us smells and flavors of banana, passion fruit, chocolate, raisons and herbal touches. The Negra Criolla brings us smells and aromas of spices, vegetables, raisons, chocolate, honey, and grass. The Mollar is highlighted for its Apple, floral, herb and yeasty tones, and the Uvina is characterized by its touch of olives, as well as red fruits, the mango and strawberries. If we discuss pure aromatic Piscos, called thus due to the fact that their smells are more intense and expressive. We also have the Italia, where you will clearly find citrus, tropical fruits, melon, floral tones, lemongrass, syrup, red raisons. Finally, we have the Torontel, a very expressive variety that encompasses us in its white flowers, jasmine, geraniums, citruses, sweet touches, and a sort of toffee flavor. Also, as if these varieties weren’t enough, we have the “Acholado” piscos, which are blends made from two grape varieties or more, and “mosto verde” to those that are the fermentation for the creation of more molt, all should also have their own characteristics, depending on the grapes that were used in the elaboration process. Pisco is a magical distilled drink, due to its versatility and generosity with cocktails. It brings out flavors and smells, giving them a very special touch, as it is a fresh distilled product, without any additives or manipulation in its production. And its alcohol proof, without any modification, gives it advantages over other distilled products that have sugar, and are affected by wood and water. It is because of this that it is possible to create an infinity of cocktails with the numbers of flowers, fruits, and spices from our three regions, as diverse as the number of pisco varieties. Just by placing a bit of flavor, passion and integration, one may have the bottle of Pisco in their hand. elpiscoesdelperu

In the land of Pisco... Notes on the History of Wine and Pisco from Arequipa

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613 -2013).

By Alejandro Málaga Núñez-Zeballos Universidad Nacional de San Agustín de Arequipa Academia Peruana del Pisco Pachamama Andean Tourist Review Translate by Katrina Heimark Among the notary protocols that the Regional Archive of Arequipa posses, there are those protocols developed by the public scribe Gaspar Hernández Mariño, whose first writing dates from 1550 and his last from 1585. It amounts to a document-rich history of 19 codices that have suffered from the severity of time and the theft of some folios of particular interest. Currently they are held in an adequate location and at the service of research. From these writings, I include some singular extracts. October 8, 1565. Merchant Mateo Sánchez, foreigner, owed to ex-mayor Juan de la Torre, the amount of 1879 pesos and 4 silver tomines of 4 pesos. The mark without quintars for use for 756 bottles of Pitay wine, of which 400 bottles were priced 4 silver pesos and 356 and the quintals of raisons were priced 6.5 pesos for each quintal. In 1568, Diego Hernández de la Cuba, neighbor of the city, sold to Alonso Nuñez, Presbyterian clergyman, his entire wine harvest from the land of the vine Lluculla, at the price of 3 common silver pesos per bottle. It was promised “a boca de tinaja” in the month of August. Alonso Núñez had to find the earthenware jugs (tinajas) in order to take the wine. That same year, Juan del Salto, resident of the city, received from Juan de Quiróz Vélez 101 bottles of wine from the earth that cost 505 pesos, 20 bottles of wine from Castilla at 10 pesos, 200 pesos; 5 bottles of vinegar, at 6 pesos each. In 1569, there is a writing of a contract between Diego García Serrano and Bartolomé López, residents of the city. Bartolomé López chartered to Diego García Serrano 250 bottles of White wine from Castilla that he had in the city, and they were transported in “carneros” of the earth to Cusco. They left on August 25 and in the lapse of 40 to 45 days they arrived at their destination. For the same destination, Isidro López sold to Pedro Gonzáles 150 bottles of wine in stock of the harvest from his land of the Pitay de Juan de la Torre. Placed in the Pitay bodega, the price of each bottle of wine in stock was 2 and a half pesos of common silver. That year, Mrs. Juana Muñiz, neighbor of Arequipa, made a contract for 5 years with the councilor of the Town Council, don Diego Cornejo, in order to produce on a piece of land with grapes in the valley of Vítor, purchasing and planting 50,000 grape vines. This is the oldest date that indicates that a woman was active in this area. elpiscoesdelperu

In Land of Pisco... Pisco loving "Celebrating two Pisco-Loving Cocktails: the Chilcano and the Pisco Sour "

Pisco / Peru more tan 400 years of History & Tradition (1613-2013). Written by: Martina Negrón Mendoza Translate by Katrina Heimark Over the past few years, thousands of Peruvian palates have added themselves to the homage that is in honor of two delicious cocktails based upon our grape brandy: the Chilcano and the Pisco Sour. The assigned dates for the savoring of these cocktails have been placed on the National Calendar for 2011 as “Chilcano Week,” which was celebrated from January 11 to 17, and more than 200 companies, among them restaurants, bars, and hotels in Lima and all over Peru, hand in hand with consumers, made this drink more popular, especially among young people. On the other hand, every second Saturday in February, starting in 2004, is the national day of Pisco Sour, a drink which has formed part of our national identity. Marisa Guiulfo, the “queen” of the most highly requested events and banquets of Lima, commented that the majority of weddings have left behind the classic toast with champagne and now prefer to do so with our prized Pisco Sour, and on the principal tables, they ask her to exhibit Peru’s immense variety of piscos. Both dates were instituted with the purpose to position these drinks in an important place in our cuisine, and, of course, increase the consumption of our Peruvian spirit. Interestingly enough, these dates were proposed by men and women of the press, who realized that other countries celebrated their national drinks in this way, and that here, only Inca Kola, a drink for the entire family, was marketed in this way. While this isn’t exactly bad, we unfortunately had forgotten a worthy, original distilled beverage, called Pisco, which is used to make exquisite cocktails. The woman behind Pisco Sour Day was reporter Virginia Rey-Sanchez, who, when she found out that Chile was going to celebrate the day of “Piscola,” began a campaign via email (this was before the days of Facebook), so that Peru would celebrate something similar. This was in February of 2003. Rey-Sanchez met with publicist Gustavo Rodriguez and with her colleague Raul Vargas in order to continue to promote the idea. An interview took place on RPP (Radio Programs of Peru) and through the use of Rodriguez’ publicity posters, they began, as a citizen’s initiative, Pisco Sour Day. The rest of the story you already know.

In the case of the Chilcano, although it isn’t a cocktail like the Pisco Sour is, and it belongs to the Highball family, the idea of having a date to celebrate it began in 2010 with the initiative of specialized gourmet reporter Manuel Cadenas Mujica, who along with a group of Pisco lovers, brought about “Chilcano Week.” Its success is due to the fact that drinking a Chilcano is the closest form to tasting a good Peruvian Pisco, as it doesn’t have lime juice or egg whites, which change the flavor. Also, the Chilcano goes very well with long get-togethers, and doesn’t wreck havoc on the system. Experts affirm that it is an elegant, simple, and refreshing drink. This initiative brought with it other ideas, such as the first Pisco Guide of Peru, where more than 125 bodegas were visited in 2006, the first TV program “Pure Pisco,” which later encouraged other Pisco lovers, such as Johnny Schuller, to create new forms for our grape brandy and increase the number of fans, and I hope that there are more activities that will be added to the promotion of our cocktails and of Peruvian Pisco—such as this magazine, which has bowed at the feet of our Pisco for a long time. In the face of commercial success, first with the Pisco Sour and then the Chilcano (the internal consumption of the national drink increased by some 18.25%, and Chilcano sales increased 1000% in comparison with the previous year), bartenders and restaurateurs began to work with fusion in order to offer their clientele an increased quantity of options for their Sours and their Chilcanos. However, the news was taken with a grain of salt by Pisco lovers who prefer to maintain the cocktails’ classic recipe in the first place, and, suggested that the new combinations include a change in name because they may confuse the client, especially foreigners who should first try the Pisco Sour or the Chilcano before any other variety. Sommelier and Pisco Taster Lucero Villagarcia suggests that if different locales want to offer a variety of drinks, they should do so by using different types of Pisco…”the Chilcano has other virtues: it is the only cocktail in which all the Pisco varieties (and other Pisco by-products, such as “macerados” or fruits soaked in Pisco) are shown off and expressed in a clear and rotund manner, and is the only which allows us to quickly distinguish the quality of the Pisco used. Pisco is undressed in the Chilcano.”

The Spread of Pisco In 2010 Peru reached first place in exports of Pisco around the world, and this caused more Pisco producers to improve their production process, and the quality of the fire-water, as well as their concern to reach all markets of Peru and the world. Now they have governmental support in their different projects. But also they realized that the first group that must be conquered is the Peruvian palate, and there is nothing better than a Peruvian, proud of their products, to bring good news to the rest of the world. In this sense, the best way to become known among people is through cocktails, as in its pure state, Pisco runs the risk of not being fully appreciated. Because of this, all of the celebrations of the Pisco Sour and the Chilcano should be positioned in the heart of every restaurant, bar, hotel and Peruvian household. A good idea that was shared with us by Pisco cultural promoter Roberto Samame is that in every family reunion, or social gathering, enthusiasm for Pisco and its preparation should be encouraged. For example, there should be competitions to discern who in the family makes the best Pisco Sour, or the best Chilcano, or which type of Pisco makes the drink taste better, or even create a private collection of Pisco from different provinces. For example, if someone goes to Moquegua, Tacna, Ica, Arequipa or Lima, they could get a bottle and/or try their version of Pisco. Each is different, depending on the soils, the climate, etc, and there are as many grape varieties as there are climates. In this way, we can begin to form a true culture of Pisco and its national drinks. The path has been laid out. Now what we have to do is continue to promote in a creative manner Pisco and its cocktails, while always respecting tradition, and spreading by word of mouth, especially to young people, the virtues of the powerful Peruvian Pisco which is beginning to conquer the world. elpiscoesdelperu

In The Land of Pisco... Pisco / Peru: The Country You've Never Visited

Pisco more than 400 years of History and Tradition (1613 -2013).

Cycling Tourism: Mala Valley, Calango, Flores, Azpitia, etc. Piscos and Wines. Hello everyone: My wife and I love to travel by bicycle, so much so that we call ourselves "cycletourists." We usually leave the city to travel through rural areas that lead to beautiful towns and we travel to put ourselves in touch with nature, tradition, customs, food, and the products of each place we visit. Last weekend we left on Friday afternoon in the Soyuz bus to Mala (90km south of Lima), and from there we traveled by bike through the Mala River Valley to Calango (approximately 25km), a picturesque and quiet town. We began to pedal around 5:30pm and soon it was night. So we pedaled through the night with our head lamps along a beautiful rural path, and passed through many towns: San Jose, Tutumo, Aymara, Correviento, etc. Vehicular transit is very low, almost null, so the route was enjoyable and relaxing under the soft light of the moon. We arrived to Calango and we spent the night in a basic and comfortable hotel (bathroom included), with no advertisement in the street, but easy to locate across from the Church and to the right of the Rotisserie Style Chicken Restaurant (delicious rotisserie style chicken with excellent French fries). The next day, Saturday, after a delicious mixed juice beverage in Jugeria Yamile, located on a corner of a central plaza, we continued on bike along the left hand side of the river, with La Capilla as our destination (some 6km away), a small town where we found an interesting rocky formation, whose interior has a beautiful chapel along the banks of the river. Alongside the bridge, we found the pleasant farm-style restaurant El Paraiso where they serve excellent food, with fresh crawfish from their own farm. After the delicious lunch, we returned in the afternoon to Calango, crossing the bridge via the right hand side, where we picked up our things from the hotel and we continued the decent to Mala. While the path became dark, we hoped to see the total eclipse of the mood that was to occur that night, but we couldn’t see anything, as the sky was totally cloudy after sunset. We spent the night in Mala, in the Plaza hotel, in front of the Central Plaza, which was a bad choice due to the noise all night. Mala is not a pretty town, and not very interesting. It is very congested, noisy, chaotic and contaminated, and the only thing that makes it worth it are the exquisite Mala Chicharrones. Sunday morning we left on bike for Santa Cruz de Flores, some 4km north of Mala, where we found within the central plaza various places that offered rich and interesting local food: “spicy” and “sopa bruta” as well as wines made on location. After tasting them, we continued to Azpitia, some 3km away, which is a small town, located above an ample terrace some 15 to 20 meters above the right hand side of the Mala River, from which there is a spectacular view of the ample lower valley, which is the land of traditional producers of wine, Pisco and apple vinegar. The Mala valley is rich in the production of fruits, especially apples, bananas and grapes. The traditional production of wine, Pisco and vinegar has become an attractive traditional industry. We purchased a bottle of wine and Pisco in every town we visited, as each has their own characteristic and particular flavor. So, we now have a small collection of the “fruit of the vine and the work of man”…If any of you would like to accompany us on our cycling tourism trips, you are welcome to! We believe that it would be wonderful to share our experiences with people who have the same interests and enthusiasm. elpiscoesdelperu

In the land of Pisco... "Pisco Cocktails" (Classics)

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History and Tradition (1613 -2013)

We would like to thank Mr. Fernando Melendez De La Cruz, Bartender and Chef, from Capitan Melendez Café-Bar for allowing us to publish some of his recipes. Capitán (Captain) 5 oz Kero Glass 2 oz Quebranta Pisco 2 oz Vermouth Cinzano Rosso Vermouth 2 green olives Combine the ingredients in a mixer with ice. Shake well, and strain into a chilled martini glass. Adorn with olives. Pisco Chilcano (Chilcano De Pisco) Highball Glass 2.5 oz Quebranta Pisco Juice from one lime, squeezed just before serving Lime slices 3 drops of Angostura Bitters 3 ice cubes 4 oz Ginger Ale Place the ingredients in the order listed into a highball glass, then gently stir. The history behind the Pisco Chilcano was originally created by Italian Immigrants and was thought of as a cure for a hang over, just like the traditional Peruvian Chilcano Fish Broth Soup. Classic Pisco Sour (Capitan Melendez 4-1-1) Kero Glass 4 oz Quebranta Pisco, or to taste 1 oz Lime juice, squeezed just before serving 1 oz Cane syrup 1/2 oz Egg White 4 ice cubes 2 drops of Angostura bitters Add all ingredients, except the bitters, to a cocktail shaker, and shake until there is a dense foam. Drain the shaker. Decorate with a few drops of angostura bitters.

In the land of Pisco... "Pisco Gatherings" Historic tales of green must pisco 1885

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613 -2013)

I recommend that you read this flavorful article that discusses one of the oldest versions of the elaboration of our unique Green Must Pisco around the world. From 1876 and 1888 German Doctor Ernst Middendorf traveled through a large part of Peru, and established a vast study of the history, traditional culture, and the social reality of the country. As part of his important observations, Middendorf offered a detailed version of the manner in which Pisco is obtained along the Southern Coast. In 1885, he visited the Quintana farm in Ica, where he could observe the sugar elaboration process, as well as that of grape “firewater.” From this experience, he detailed the following: On top of a rocky outcropping, at the foot of which the sugar cane wheel is located, we find the facilities to press the grapes. They are made up of a round stone deposit, fifty feet in diameter, with a brick floor, joined by clay. In this recipient, some approximate five feet tall, the grapes are placed, and in order to crush them, some 8 to 10 horses and mules run in a circle, tied with a strong rope to a post in the center of the deposit. The juice runs through a stone channel to bottles for fermentation, where it will be stored for 14 days, and once fermented, is distilled. Along the round deposit in which the grapes are crushed, there are rectangular recipients, also made of stone and paved with bricks, in which the crushed grapes are pressed, with the hopes to extract the rest of the juice. Middendorf, an astute observer, adds “The pressing mechanism is very primitive; it consists only of a large round disk made of wooden planks, and is pressed with thick beams and a rough screw also made of wood. The extracted juice runs through the stone channels to a general container. If the fermented juice is distilled before all the sugar has become alcohol, there is a finer firewater produced, called “green must pisco” (pisco mosto verde), and has a smoother, sweeter, and more aromatic flavor than the firewater prepared with the juice completely fermented. But it is much more expensive, as it requires three times the amount of green grapes. When the firewater is distilled, it fills curious bottles called Pisco, a name that probably comes from the port where they are sent to be exported.” Ernst Middendorf . Perú Observaciones y estudios del país y sus habitantes durante una permanencia de 25 años 1894. Lima 1973 De los Diversos Significados del Nombre Pisco Crónicas y Relaciones que se refieren al origen y virtudes del Pisco, bebida tradicional y patrimonio del Perú (Banco Latino 1990). Normalmente no se traduce títulos de libros, pero lo hare aquí. Ernst Middendorf. Peru: Observations and Studies of the Country and its Inhabitants During a Stay of 25 Years in 1894. Lima, 1973. Of the Different Meanings of the Name Pisco, Chronicles and Relations that Refer to the Origins and Virtues of Pisco, National Drink and Heritage of Peru (Latin Bank 1990). Ernst Wilhem Middendorf, Peruvian Traveler (1830-1909) Ernst Wilhem Middendorf was a German doctor who, influenced by Humboldt’s writings, decided to travel to the New World. In his travels through Peru, between 1859 and 1862, a true interest in all that is pre-Hispanic surged within him, which motivated him to study linguistics and archeology in Germany. Upon his return, he traveled through Peru, registering archeological and natural heritage for 25 years. He traveled through the Maranga Archeological Complex until 1886. His notes, photos and blueprints constitute a valuable documentary legacy about an city that he saw, for the most part, intact. Middendorf summarized his work in an ambitious work titled “Peru,” which was published in Germany in 1894. His keenness for comparison and analysis, as well as his attention to detail both in description and registry, make Ernst W. Middendor a notable precursor to archeological research in Peru. Taken from: http://www.elpiscoesdelperu.com/boletines/agosto2007/02.htm Translate by Katrina Heimark elpiscoesdelperu object width="560" height="315">

In the land of Pisco... What is Pisco?

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History and Tradition (1613 -2013).

Pisco is the name given to the spirit derived from distillation of grapes, which is produced in the southern coastal region of Peru. It is obtained from the distillation and fermentation of fresh grape juice (with an alcohol content of 38º to 48º) according to established practices in the producing areas, previously recognized and declared as such by national law, specifically in the departments of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua and the valleys of Locumba, Sama and Caplina in Tacna. The Process Pisco is obtained through the distillation and fermentation of fresh grape musts (grape juice). This process starts at the beginning of February every year, when the selected pisco grapes go through both deseeding and pressing machines, being careful not to crush the seeds. The extracted juice is stored in cubes ant it is at this stage that the yeast starts to take effect, thus converting the sugar from the juice into alcohol. Later on, when it is fermented, the liquid is extracted and boiled ay 90º to 110º until it transforms into vapor, taking care to preserve the natural fruit aroma which gives the pisco its final character. This vapor is transported to a coil which is submerged in a well of cold water where the vapor is condensed and turned into pisco. This is the distillation phase in which the head, heart and tail are separated. The head and tail are discarded because the highest quality alcohol is found in the heart. Once the process is complete, the pisco is stored in stainless steel containers, so as not alter the color or aroma of the pisco, for a period of three or more months, the time it takes to reach maturity and the full development of all its characteristics. It is now ready to be bottled and enjoyed.

In the Land of Pisco... Letters to the Editor

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of history and tradition

Write to us at liviopw@yahoo.com Business Opportunities 1.-What can we do so that Peruvian Pisco is sold in France at a competitive price? I live in Yvelines, whose capital is Versalles. Paul Andre Makaliz3@gmail.com 2.-I’m Peruvian. I live six months of the year in California, three months in Mexico (my wife is Mexican), and three months in Peru. I would like to contact a company that exports Pisco and would like to have a representative abroad. I am a Real Estate Broker in California and Mexico, and in the process of retirement. I want to put my 40 years of experience in various businesses in the service of Peruvian Pisco. I have a few contacts with vineyard owners in Napa, California. Congratulations on your website. Cesar canchante@hotmail.com 3.-How can I make a business with a small quantity of Pisco? Italo Sanchez Tohalino ipsancheztohalino@gmail.com 4.-Dear Sirs, I would appreciate it if you could send more information on how to export pisco, as I am interested in beginning this business and meet Pisco producers, and develop my own brand, as well as learn how to export and earn money with this business. Regards Carlos Peñaranda carlos_roberto125@hotmail.com 5.-Good Morning. I’ve read your email and I am very interested in promoting Pisco here (Portugal). I always try to do something, but on a very small scale, and I am trying to participate in small cuisine events, but my biggest limitation is the ability to obtain Pisco. Here it is very expensive (500ml cost 25 Euros), and there is no support from the Embassy. My idea is to organize, through the wine tasting and firewater circles here, the participation with Pisco in a continuous manner, especially for our compatriots in Madrid, who are the closest to be able to participate. In order to participate one must have a variety of piscos, and here we only have one brand and one type of Pisco harvest. Hugs, Marco L. marcoleyp@gmail.com 6.-Hi, I live in New York and I heard about you through Cadena Sur. I would ike you to tell me if you know where I can get all the varieties of Pisco here in New York, I live in Maspeth. Once I’ve purchased acholado and quebranta, and it took luck, because it isn’t something you do every day, purchase Pisco, and you must request it from the liquor store. The only brand they sell in NY is Ocucaje. Well, I hope you can help. I thank you and congratulate you on your website! Good luck, from all my heart. Long live Peru!! Cecilia Pinillos marce-toli@hotmail.com 7.-Please send me information about the opportunity to have business with pisco in the United States. I would appreciate it if you could send information as soon as possible, as I am planning to visit Peru, and I would like to have information before I travel. Sincerely, Cesar M. Marius cmmarius@aol.com 8.-I would like to know what type of business opportunities I could have with the distribution of new products in New Jersey. Eduardo Poma POMA20@VERIZON.NET 9.-I would like to know more about these business opportunities. I am starting a company whose goal is the Pisco industry. Thanks for youresponse. Nana Luzmila milita_rodas@yahoo.es 10.-Hello Livio, Where can I buy Pisco in Western Australia? Cheers Emmanuel Blondel wisdomad@bigpond.net.au 11.-I would like to buy bottles of fruit soaked in Pisco, please send me prices for the amount of 200 and 400 bottles. Also, I would like you to tell me if they have an origin certificate, as well as all the documentation necessary for exportation to the United States, where I have a contact. Thanks for your answer. Thanks. Victor Hugo Sierra Espinoza 994952067 victor_h_sierra@hotmail.com 12.-We are interested in contacting someone in order to commercialize Pisco. We are located in Buenos Aires, Argentina. We’re awaiting your quick reply. Mirta mirta1450@hotmail.com 13.-Where can I go to purchase Peruvian Pisco in Dallas, Texas? There used to be Pisco in “Goodie-Goodies,” but lately they only have Chilean Pisco! No Way! Once they told me that they had Chilean Pisco because the seller of the Pisco always visited them, while the Peruvian Pisco person never came. Could that be true? PERUBETTY@aol.com 14.-I am very interested in this subject. I need more information about the rules and requirements to begin to distribute a brand of Pisco. I live in Roswell, GA. Thanks in advance. Yuri Alviz yurialviz@hotmail.com 15.-I will soon be travelling to Spain and I am beginning a business of direct sales of pisco through small exports. To begin, I would like to know the prices abroad, and the ease to find this sort of export. Is there any sort of support from the government? Regards Juan Carlos Flores xmflores@hotmail.com 16.-I would appreciate it if you could send me information about prices and forms to purchase Pisco from abroad. Sincerely, Alida de Rubiños alidarubinos@yahoo.com 17.-Dear Sirs, I am a Peruvian businessman that has been living for some time in Rome. I would appreciate it if you could inform me of foreign sales, tariffs and other information that you consider to be relevant in case there is the possibility to commercialize Pisco around here. Thanks for your response. Sincerely, Carlos Arturo Arias cariascar@yahoo.com 18.-I was checking out your website on Pisco. It is very interesting and focused on Peruvian culture. However, I am interested in a business opportunity in the commercialization of Pisco. What are the procedures to begin this business? Please send me information, and maybe we could meet. Thanks, Alberto Olivares aoc0307@hotmail.com 19.-Hello friends. I would like complete information on how to import our Pisco. I live in the United States (Florida). I appreciate in advance any help you can offer. Felipe Escobar. felipe026@hotmail.com

In The Land of Pisco ... Meeting Doctor Pisco: Part III

Pisco / Peru more than 400 years of History & Tradition (1613- 2013).

Here we share the third and final part of this article that has been separated into three parts. Enjoy! The Origin of the Pisco Sour As well as his thesis regarding whether or not Pisco is Peruvian, Angeles Caballero has found at least five theories that relate to the Pisco Sour. All of these theories are based upon documentation, not tradition.. Perhaps the most “authentic” Pisco sour is that which is made in Pasco, not in Lima. What is our magic cocktail doing at those incredible heights? When Angeles Caballero did research in order to publish a book about the literature in this area, he discovered that at the beginning of the last century that there was a bar called Morris in Pasco. This bar was owned by the American William Morris, who prepared the first Pisco Sour in Pasco in order to satisfy the demand for the whisky sour made by his countrymen who were working in a mine in Cerro de Pasco. Dr. Pisco states that when Morris closed the bar in Pasco and reopened it with the same name along Boza street in the center of Lima, that was when the Pisco Sour was first introduced in the capital. But his income split because one of his barmen also came down from the mountains, but began to work in the Maury Hotel. This information can be corroborated in the literature of Luis Alberto Sanchez, where we can see the “birth certificate” of Pisco Sour in Pasco. With the same lexicographic technique, Angeles Caballero has set out to demonstrate that the lúcuma and the chirimoya are also Peruvian. At his 75 years of age, he has maintained his investigative passion and his academic perseverance to continue the project of discussing the literary production of all Peru’s departments. His completed works are some 90 books spanning from literature, education, journalism and folk-lore. “The only thing that I am missing is becoming a member of the Academia, but that will never happen because there are too many hoops.” We forgot: Dr. Pisco also has maintained the rebellious spirit of his youth. Two Anecdotes “I’m going to tell you two anecdotes: I was invited to dinner when I was dean, and when I got there they told me “This is legitimate Pisco” and they gave me a full glass. “And you, sir, must drink it in front of us.” I had never drunken Pisco before, so I said to myself “Well, I hope the Lord of Luren helps me.” I drank and I felt something, but after eating a salad of lima beans, the effect passed. Time went by and I heard that in Ica there was an institution called the FBI. “Have you heard of it?” they asked me. “Of course!” I responded, “It’s the Federal Bureau of Investigation.” “NO!” they corrected me, “It’s the Federation of Drunk people of Ica!” (Federacion de Borrachos Iqueños). “And we want to make you a member.” Since I was the “preferred son of Ica” despite being from Ancash. They told me that they were going to do a serious ceremony—like the Masons do—and I would have to drink a large glass. “Oh no,” I told them, “I’d prefer not to be a member. I have to work, be an example, and I am a dean of a university.” I wouldn’t join. Everyone in the group were producers from Ica, from the then high society of Ica. Written by: Manuel Cadenas Mujica The Editors elpiscoesdelperu.com elpiscoesdelperu Compartimos con Uds. este artículo que será difundido en 3 entregas, nos pareció muy interesante. Disfrútenlo. Tertulias Pisqueras Conozcamos al Doctor Pisco - Parte III Origen del pisco sour Además de su tesis sobre la peruanidad del pisco, Ángeles Caballero ha recogido al menos cinco teorías acerca del pisco sour, todas en base a documentación, no a tradiciones. Quizás más verosímil sea aquella que coloca su origen en Pasco, no en Lima. ¿Qué hacía por allá el mágico cóctel, en tales alturas increíbles? Cuando investigaba para realizar su libro sobre la literatura de esa zona descubrió que a principios del siglo pasado existió allá un bar Morris, del norteamericano William Morris, quien preparó el primer pisco sour para satisfacer la demanda del whisky sour de sus paisanos trabajadores de la mina de Cerro de Pasco. El “Doctor Pisco” señala que recién cuando Morris cierra ese bar en Pasco y lo reabre en la calle Boza, en el centro de Lima, con el mismo nombre, se instala el pisco sour en la capital. Pero bifurcado ingreso, puesto que sus barmans en la sierra también “bajaron” y se instalaron nada menos que en el hotel Maury. Este dato se encuentra refrendado, señala, en la Literatura Peruana de Luis Alberto Sánchez, donde por primera vez se da partida de nacimiento al pisco sour en Pasco. Con la misma técnica eminentemente lexicográfica, Ángeles Caballero ha emprendido la demostración de la peruanidad de la lúcuma y la chirimoya. A sus setenta y cinco años mantiene vivo el ánimo investigador y la perseverancia académica para continuar, además, su proyecto de cubrir la producción literaria de todos los departamentos del Perú. La obra completa de este autor llega ya a los 90 libros, de Literatura, Educación, Periodismo, y Folclor. “Lo único que me falta es que me hagan miembro de la Academia, pero no lo harán nunca porque hay mucha argolla”. Lo olvidábamos: el Doctor Pisco también mantiene intacto el ímpetu rebelde de su juventud. Dos anécdotas del Doctor Pisco “Le voy a contar dos anécdotas: me invitaron a una comida, yo ya era rector, y a la entrada me dijeron ‘este es el legítimo pisco’ y me dieron un vaso lleno. ‘Y usted delante de nosotros lo tiene que tomar’. Nunca había tomado pisco, así que me dije: ‘Bueno, que el Señor de Luren me ayudé’. Tomé y sentí algo, pero con una ensalada de pallares pasó el efecto. Pasó el tiempo y supe que en Ica hay una institución a la que llaman el FBI. ‘¿Conoce usted?’ me dijeron. ‘Claro’, respondí, ‘es el Federal Bureau of Investigation’. ‘Noooooooooo’, me corrigieron, ‘¡es la Federación de Borrachos Iqueños!, y queremos hacerlo socio’, porque soy Hijo Predilecto de Ica a pesar de ser ancashino. Me explicaron que iba a haber una ceremonia solemne, tipo masón, y tenía que tomar un vaso así de grande. Ah, no, les dije, prefiero no ser miembro. Tengo que trabajar, dar el ejemplo, soy rector de una universidad. Y me negué. Todos eran productores iqueños, de la sociedad alta iqueña de entonces”. Fin Escrito por: Manuel Cadenas Mujica Los Editores elpiscoesdelperu.com